Sunday, October 30, 2016

MEXICO: THE CATRINAS OF DAY OF THE DEAD CELEBRATIONS 2016



Few images in Mexico are as ubiquitous or have the depth of meaning as the female grinning skeleton with a large overly-adorned hat from the late 19th century. She is known as La Calavera Catrina (The Catrina Skull) or more simply as La Catrina. I have been fascinated with her image and her representations since moving to México many years ago. However, I had never made the time to learn what La Catrina was all about. The time was finally here since we are only days away from one of my favorite annual celebrations in México, Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). So let’s meet and greet La Catrina!

LA CATRINA’S ORIGINS


Originally called La Calavera Garbancera (or “'Dapper Skeleton” or “Elegant Skull'), La Catrina was created between 1910 and 1913 as a zinc etching by the famous Mexican print maker, cartoon illustrator, and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada (Mexican 1852-1913).

Jose Guadalupe Posada’s calaveras (images of skulls or skeletons) were intended as social satire. La Catrina was depicted as a female skeleton dressed only in a hat befitting the upper class dress of Europeans of the early 20th century. She was created as a satirical portrait of those Mexicans who Posada felt were aspiring to adopt European aristocratic traditions in the pre-revolution era. La Catrina also symbolized the contrasts between the upper and lower classes prior to the Mexican revolution.






The image of la Calavera Catrina made from a zinc etching captures the famous calavera or skull/skeleton images that had become popular at the turn of the 20th century. She was described as a person who was ashamed of her indigenous origins and dressed imitating the French style while wearing lots of makeup to make his skin look whiter. This description also ties to the original name Garbancera which became a nickname given to people of indigenous ancestry who imitated European style and denied their own cultural heritage.





LA CATRINA’S CULTURAL AND SOCIAL POPULARITY



Diego Rivera's mural "Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central” (Dream of a Sunday afternoon in Alameda Central Park)

While the original work by Jose Guadalupe Posada introduced the character, the popularity of La Calavera Catrina as well as her name is derived from a work by artist Diego Rivera in his 1948 mural entitled "Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central” (Dream of a Sunday afternoon in Alameda Central Park).

In this amazing mural Rivera depicts a culmination of 400 years of Mexico's major figures which includes himself, Posada, and his wife Frida Kahlo. Rivera took inspiration from the original etching by Jose Guadalupe Posada and gave La Calavera Catrina a body as well as more of an identity in her elegant outfit as she is poised between himself and Posada. (see below for close up of center panel)

The intent seemed to be to show the tradition of welcoming and comfort the Mexicans have with death and especially the identity of a lady of death which heralded back to the heritage of the Aztec goddess Mictecacihuatl.





The central focus of the mural is a display of bourgeois complacency and values shortly before the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Elegantly dressed upper-class figures promenade under the figure of the long ruling dictator Porfirio Díaz. An indigenous family is forced back by police batons and to the right flames and violence loom. The center of the mural is dominated by the elegantly dressed skeleton, La Calavera Catrina, holding arms with the Mexican graphic artist who first conceived and drew her, José Guadalupe Posada, in a black suit and cane.

On La Catrina's right she is holding hands with a child version of Diego Rivera in short pants. Rivera's wife Frida Kahlo is standing just behind and between him and La Catrina; Kahlo has her hand on Rivera's shoulder and she is holding a yin-yang device. 

As explained by curator David de la Torre from the LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes (Mexican-American Museum and Cultural Center in Los Angeles, California, USA), La Catrina has come to symbolize not only El Día de los Muertos and the Mexican willingness to laugh at death itself, but originally Catrina was an elegant or well-dressed woman, so it refers to rich people, de la Torre said. "Death brings this neutralizing force; everyone is equal in the end. Sometimes people have to be reminded of that."  





LA CATRINA'S "PAINTED FACE" FOR DIA DE LOS MUERTOS





In time La Catrina became the iconic image of the annual Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, celebrations in México.  More recently La Catrina has also been seen in the company of male skeletons called Los Catrines (plural of El Catrín). Definitely a sign of our contemporary times. 








I find the painted faces of Catrina absolutely fantastic!  Here are just a few with a description of the symbols that are typically found.





A mixture of Aztec and European symbolism infuse the meaning of Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) face painting designs. The tradition is a mixture of Catholic beliefs with the religions of indigenous Mexican people.





The most common design is to paint the face to resemble a skull. For people not familiar with Latin American culture, this might seem strange and even scary. However, the skull has a uniquely positive meaning in Dias de los Muertos, very different from the skeletons and ghosts of Halloween. The multi-day holiday is an opportunity for families and friends to gather, pray for, honor, celebrate, and remember friends and family members who have died.




Although the face painting is not exactly an ancient tradition, the calavera design itself is quite old. Skulls (also known as calaveras or calacas in Mexico) are an essential part of the symbolism of Dia de los Muertos in Mexico. They are used not only as the basis for painting faces, but also are the shape of candy such as sugar skulls and for many skeleton-inspired decorations.





In Mexico the Aztec culture believed life on earth to be something of an illusion. Death was a positive step forward into a higher level of consciousness. For the Aztecs skulls were a positive symbol not only of death, but also of rebirth.





People in Mexico wear traditional skull masks and the tradition of painting faces to look like skulls has grown up as a variation of this custom. Masks have always been powerful objects in many cultures which often allow the wearer to get in touch with their darker and chaotic side. Skull face painting can be viewed as a chance to overcome fear of death and get mischievous which is forbidden at other times of the year.






Flowers are also symbolically important. Many skull designs incorporate flowers and the one that is most closely associated with Dia de los Muertos is the marigold which is known as the flower of the dead. In Aztec belief, the marigold was sacred to Mictlantecuhtli, the god of the dead. When the souls of departed family and friends return to earth it is believed the strong scent of marigold helps to guide them back.



A lovely La Catrina in a pensive moment. Can you see what she is holding?
  

Here comes the La Catrina bride with her fiancé and "bodyguard"!  

Flowers are often incorporated into the face-painted skull designs. This mixing of skulls and flowers may seem strange to some, unless you remember their purpose which is to overcome the fear of death and celebrate life.




 A family celebrating Dia de los Muertos in Oaxaca City, Oaxaca 

 Notice the spider web on the this lovely Catrina's forehead and the green skeletal fingers!  

This Catrina definitely has "the look" of Dia de los Muertos!  

La Catrina has also become well known for a vast variety of handicraft creations including the very popular ceramic figures in her image. La Calavera Catrina can also be found in her more traditional form both in drawn works as well as sculptures made out of Oaxacan wood carvings, papier-mâché (paper mache) sculptures, majolica pottery, and black clay.




I sincerely hope you have enjoyed meeting Catrina as much as I have enjoyed learning more about this iconic Mexican figure. Catrina certainly has quite a place not only in México history, but also in the traditional Dia de los Muertos celebrations which honor those who have passed on. La Catrina is definitely one busy lady!



Here is the link to my photograph album created in honor of La Catrina:

LA CATRINA PHOTO ALBUM

And the following link will take you to my previous Dia de los Muertos blog posting:



DIA DE LOS MUERTOS IN MEXICO


Please don't be shy. Us bloggers love receiving questions, comments, or suggestions. Until next time, safe trails and travel well.   Laura

La Catrina Laura wishing you a splendid Dia de los Muertos and Halloween!    











Friday, October 21, 2016

MEXICO STREET EATS


    Eating carnitas (pork) tacos on the street with my regrets to Senor Pig!  

It might come as a surprise to many of you that one of our favorite pleasures of living in Mexico is eating off the streets. I can already feel you shaking your head in disbelief and thinking Laura has totally lost it, si? Well, if you trust me and have the “stomach” for it, I will introduce you to the delights of Mexico Street Eats. I promise that you will survive this posting intact and without any adverse side effects including the possibility of “Montezuma’s revenge” (see remarks at end of posting). So if you are hungry or just curious, let’s visit the street food of Mexico.


Enjoying the street treats after the Good Friday Easter celebration in Oaxaca City.

Street food in Mexico is called antojitos (literally "little cravings") which is prepared by street vendors and at small traditional markets throughout Mexico. They are foods not typically eaten at the formal main meal of the day which is served in the mid-afternoon. Street foods are easiest to find in the mornings, in the early evening, and continuing until late into the night when Mexican night life really starts warming up on the streets.

                               

Morning, noon, or night is always a good time to enjoy a stop at your favorite stand for a taco fix as seen in Puerto Vallarta.



A street taco stand sheltered by an old church in Oaxaca City is certainly a lovely setting to enjoy your morning street eats.


Taco stands have faithful customers who return time and again for the daily specialty and Taqueria "El Moreno" in PV specializes in a variety of meat tacos.

Street eats are typically found at a taco stand which can be either permanently fixed to its site or temporary with it being assembled and removed after each period of operation. In Mexico, taco stands are commonly referred to as taquerías because originally a taquería was typically a street vendor. Taco stands are typically located outdoors although the term is can also be used at times to refer to indoor taco restaurants. These stands typically specialize in tacos (no surprise there!) and other Mexican delights which are not only delicious, but very affordable.


Rosita's food stand was in the municipal mercado of Oaxaca and the choices were overwhelming!  I wanted to try everything.

The best of Mexico street eats are often found in and around markets and at public transportation stops, but it can also be found at traditional street markets called tianguis. A tianguis is an open-air market that is traditionally held on certain market days in a town or city neighborhood in Mexico and Central America. This tradition has its roots well into the pre-Hispanic period and continues in many cases essentially unchanged into the present day. The word tianguis comes from Nahuatl, the language of the Aztec Empire. In rural areas, many traditional types of merchandise are also still sold, such as agriculture supplies and products as well as modern, mass-produced goods, in the weekly tianguis.



The selection of foods, spices, beans, chiles, moles, condiments, etc. as seen in the municipal mercados is incredibly. I wonder what Frida would have chosen from this stand?


Speaking of Frida, this was one of our favorite food stands found in the municipal mercado in Ocotlan, Oaxaca.  Check out the owner, a look-alike Frida!  

Mexico has one of the most extensive street food cultures in Latin America with about 58% of the population eating on the street at least once a week. Much of the best of Mexican cuisine is based on street food. Mexican food has been named by UNESCO as an “intangible cultural heritage of mankind” which is quite an impressive honor!



Nothing gets an appetite excited as food being prepared outdoors on a grill as seen in San Miguel de Allende.

I don’t know about you, but I am becoming quite hungry just thinking about the wonderful variety of Mexican street food available. Please join me and let’s go meet the most commonly found and enjoyed street food in Mexico including the vast variety of tacos, tortas, tamales, quesadillas, ceviche, fruit cocktails and fruit drinks.


TACOS: THE KING OF STREET FOOD


My husband would be completely happy if he could get his tacos "on-line."

The taco is the best known and the most popular of Mexican street foods. A taco is simply a folded tortilla with some kind of filling. Mexican street taco fillings vary from one region to another. Most tacos are made with corn tortillas, except in the very north of the country where flour tortillas dominate. The tortillas used in Mexican tacos are usually soft, although the entire taco can be fried, which is called “dorado” (golden). The taco has its origins in the pre Hispanic period when other foods were eaten with tortillas used as a scoop.


Tacos, tacos, tacos!  The variety and variation can seem endless, but in the end they are all delicious.

The modern taco developed in Mexico’s rural areas when wives would bring their husband’s meals to the fields wrapped in tortillas. Tacos arrived to the city when stands began to sell foods known to the many rural people who migrated to the cities in the 20th century. The taco bridges social and economic barriers in that everyone in the country eats them, leading it to be called “the most democratic of Mexican foods. I say bravo!



Some tacos with double wrapped tortillas to keep it all together!  



Some words of wisdom from the self-proclaimed Mexican “Taco King” which I find particularly heartfelt: Jesús Catalán, the self-proclaimed "Taco King", and native of Del Valle, the taco epicenter of México City, had the following to say: So, what makes a good taco? Catalán says it’s all about “tortillas, beans, chile, the fresh ingredients of a salsa” and the essential squeeze of lime. Catalán swears that, “God is a taquero (taco vendor), life is a puesto (taco stand), love is the salsa, and you are the taco.”

Great tips from the "Taco King":
“Always look for the crowd, which not only indicates deliciousness and hygiene, but also a good price. Ask for tacos "con copia" which means two tortillas instead of just one per taco. Deep-fried tacos and quesadillas are not only tastier, but will fill you up better.”




Foods eaten at taco stands always seem to taste better to me.  Why is that?


Last words of wisdom from the "Taco King":
“In such a diverse country as Mexico, food is perhaps the strongest element that ‘glues’ us all. Old and young, rich and poor, religious or not.” 
Edited excerpt from the following with thanks: http://www.huffingtonpost.com


Grilled meats, chorizos (pork sausages), onions, tortillas:  what's not to love?

Here is a rundown of when and what foods can be found on the streets of Mexico which should satisfy the majority of your daily food needs. Remember, the main Mexican meal of the day is mid-afternoon and is usually eaten at home with family. "Street Eats" at taco stands take care of your hunger any other time of the day. Got it?


BREAKFAST:  
Depending upon the city or town, these options are available usually from 7 a.m. (or earlier) until noon.


Tacos for breakfast works for me and this local family although my husband thinks I am muy loca.  Or maybe I am just muy mexicana!


Municipal markets are very popular with a great variety of Mexican eats available.  The municipal market in Ocotlan, Oaxaca, was no exception, and  was definitely the place to eat while visiting the town for its weekly market day.



JUICES:  On street corners you'll see simple supermarket carts or small stands set up where vendors sell fresh juices, most commonly orange and grapefruit.. Some juice stands even offer carrot juice. For a few extra pesos, you can get a "combinado" of orange with a splash of carrot.



Fresh coconut juice can be found in Old Town of Puerto Vallarta and spiced to order.

Mexicans adore their fruits and juices and with the vast variety of fruits found in the country who wouldn't!  A popular small fruit and juice stand in Puerto Vallarta.


I loved this bicycle juice cart as seen on the sandy streets of Tulum.  The caption loosely translates to: "Protect the ecology (environment). No smog."



LICUADOS: You'll recognize these stands by the big glass jars on display, filled with all kinds of chopped fruit. Licuados are fruit shakes made with an evaporated milk base; the most common flavors are the banana-chocolate, strawberry, mamey (an orange fruit with a texture similar to avocado) or chocolate. If you want something lighter, ask for an agua fresca which is the same blends of fruit, but made with water and not milk.



Check out the gorgeous colors of these aguas frescas as seen at the weekly tianguis market in San Miguel de Allende.


FRUITS: Small bicycle carts and stands sell fruit cocktails of papaya, watermelon, and strawberries covered with whipped cream, honey, and granola. If you want a more savory breakfast, they also also sell generous portions of shredded cucumber, jicama, or carrot seasoned with lime, salt, chili, and chamoy, a sour-salty-sweet fruit sauce.



The displays of fruits and vegetables are gorgeous as seen at the weekly market in San Pablo Etla, near Oaxaca City.


This fruit stand in Tulum offers fruit salads, ice creams, aguas frescas (fruit waters), and paletas (popsicles).  It looks like this place made my husband happy!


TAMALES: Tamales are one of the most popular street foods in Mexico especially for breakfast. A huge steel bucket full of steaming tamales and two pots with atole, a sweet breakfast drink of strawberry, chocolate, or rice thickened with starch, are the basics of the tamale stand. The tamale is made from corn masa that's been formed around a filling and then wrapped (usually in a corn husk), and steamed. Tamales are one of the most emblematic foods of Mexico. We especially like the banana leaf wrapped tamale which is typical of the Oaxaca region of Mexico - very, very yummy and our favorite. 



Banana leaf wrapped tamales keep the corn masa and filling moist and delicious!  

A big variety of homemade tamales are offered at the weekly market in San Miguel de Allende.

Tamales dressed up with mole, green tomato, and red tomato salsas.  Que rico!

Tamales wrapped in corn husks can disguise a wide range of fillings found in the masa dough.  It's a surprise!


CHILAQUILES: Chilaquiles are a very traditional type of breakfast: triangular, deep fried tortillas swimming in a red or green spicy sauce and topped with sour cream, cheese, and some fresh onion. The enhanced version of chilaquiles comes with grilled steak, egg, or chicken. Put this combo inside a Mexican bolillo (roll) to make a torta (sandwich) of chilaquiles. Another one of our personal favorites!



Red chilaquiles, all decked out with eggs, is definitely a stick-to-your-ribs kind of breakfast and worth every single bite!  

Chilaquiles with green tomato sauce and sour cream.  Works for me every time!  

COFFEE AND PAN DULCES (SWEET BREADS/PASTRIES)
Mexicans simply love their pan dulces (pastries) which can be found everywhere. It is not uncommon to see a vendor riding a bicycle and selling coffee from a jug with a variety of pastries carefully placed on a big round basket.


For the largest selection of pan dulces you might have to visit a panaderia (bakery), but it's worth the effort!  

Just a few of the many, many varieties of pan dulces to satisfy your morning sweet tooth in Mexico.
                      
These coconut dulces are rich and sticky and cannot be ignored when seen on the streets and the beach front malecon of Puerto Vallarta.

LUNCH AND SNACKS: Available from about noon until dusk and way into the night ((especially in the case of tacos and tortas).


A great torta stand in one of the municipal mercados in San Miguel de Allende with a great selection of pork sandwiches.  And now even a TV!

TACOS:  A tortilla (usually corn) forms the base of all tacos, which can be filled with anything: every part of the pig, cow, and chicken, stewed (as in a guisado), barbecued (for barbacoa), roasted on a vertical spit (al pastor), cooked atop a griddle (a la plancha), or campechano (a melange of chopped meats). Tacos de mariscos (seafood) and pescado (fish) can also be found on the streets of Puerto Vallarta. Beans, cheese, rice, nopales (cactus paddles), and grilled spring onions are common additions. Fresh salsas should be available and every stand should have one red and one green salsa.  Here are some of the most common tacos:


CARNITAS:  If you love pork, this is your taco. Carnitas are made from medium sized portions of lean pork meat, as well as other parts of the pig, including the head, that are slowly cooked in pork fat. There are different types of carnitas and the color of the meat will depend on the ingredients that the taquero adds to season the pork fat. The red raw salsa and the guacamole salsa are best for this one.  ONE OF OUR TOP CHOICES!



This pig/cerdo gave up his life to make some tasty pork dishes as seen at the municipal market in Quenca, Ecuador.  Gracias, Sr. Pig!


TACOS DE PESCADO (FISH):  One of our great pleasures is being able to regularly enjoy a fish taco at our very, very favorite fish taco stand. Marisma is a local institution which we have been enjoying since our arrival in Puerto Vallarta twenty years ago. Everything is made fresh to order including the tortillas and the deep-fried fish and/or shrimp tacos all of which are simply divine (in our humble opinion which includes three generations of family members as seen below). VOTED OUR #1 TACO FAVORITE!




 Marisma fish tacos in Puerto Vallarta are almost worth the trip alone according to two of our children! 

A photo of a Marisma fish taco cannot even start to describe its taste!

GUISADOS: A tortilla holds a portion of rice or beans topped with a guisado which is a pre-made traditional Mexican dish like chicken with mole, chicharron in green or red sauce, chicken with green pumpkin seed sauce, or pork with spicy sauce. Every stand will have their specialties, and every day they'll offer a different variety.

What is Chicharron?
Chicharron is a dish generally consisting of deep fried pork belly or pork rinds.  skin with some spices added. There’s very little else involved here. It comes in various forms but the most common comes in small bags found in nearly every store lightly flavored with salt and garlic. Many locals dip the small pieces into a little dish of vinegar and chili.  It’s often used as an accompaniment to beer or at fiestas. Mexicans LOVE their chicharron!


 Tacos with deep fried pork belly is a Mexican favorite!  Oink, oink!  

The addictive chicharron can be found in every convenience store, but is especially good and greasy when freshly made.


DE CABEZA:  Yes, it's cow head. This type of taco is very common as a nighttime snack (maybe after a few tequilas!), but they're not hard to find for lunch either. The taquero will carve meat to order from a steamed cow's skull which can be quite dramatic. I admit to not have had a cow head taco yet, but it's on my "must do" list!  



If Fred Flintstone says they are good who am I to disagree? 


BARBACOA: Probably one of the most iconic foods of the Estado de Mexico, barbacoa is made from sheep, and the long-braising cooking method dates to pre-Colombian times. There are two types of barbacoa taco: soft which is seasoned with a pulpe-based salsa called salsa borracha (drunk) and deep fried which is topped with sour cream and cheese.



 Barbacoa is a form of cooking meat in Mexico which dates to pre-Colombian times.


Sweet and spicy barbacoa which is shredded meat and delicious. I am so ready for some right NOW! 


AL PASTOR: This taco is the quintessential chilango (Mexico City) taco, an object of extraordinary obsession. The cooking method, layers of pork on a vertical spit is very similar to gyros, belying the taco's Arab origins. Every taquero has his own special recipe, and they are very protective of their craft. It's served with onions and cilantro, and often a little bit of pineapple. ANOTHER OF OUR FAVORITES!



Al pastor, also known as tacos al pastor, is a dish developed in Central Mexico likely as a result of the shawarma spit-grilled meat brought by the Lebanese immigrants to Mexico.  Photo was taken at the weekly tianguis market in San Miguel de Allende. Super yum!


Shawarma is a middle eastern Arab meat preparation wherein lamb, chicken, turkey, beef, veal, or other mixed meats are placed on a vertical spit and then grilled for as long as a day.  Mexico uses primarily pork for al pastor tacos and they are definitely worth the wait. 


CANASTA: If you spot a bicycle carrying a small basket with a plastic bag inside, you've found tacos de canasta (basket tacos). Tortillas are filled with potato, beans, or chicharron, the tacos are carefully arranged in the basket until it is full. Then the taquero pours hot seasoned oil over the tacos, covers them with the plastic bag, and lets them sit until the tacos are meltingly soft. They don't have a long shelf life so they are best enjoyed as soon as they are available.



Local ladies with their baskets of homemade tacos and tamales for sale at the entrance to one of the Oaxaca City municipal mercados.  


Tacos de canasta are delicious, but especially best as soon as they are available for purchase.  


A LA PLANCHA: Also known as "carne asada," this taco is filled with steak or chicken that's been grilled and then chopped and placed on a tortilla. The best options to top a taco a la plancha with guacamole or red salsa.























A torta (sandwich) or taco a la plancha "stand on wheels" as seen near a gasoline pit stop somewhere in Mexico.


Grilled meat for a fantastic tortilla-wrapped taco which might just be too beautiful to eat or maybe not!


Ah, the smell of meat on the grill being prepared for a la plancha tacos or tortas. It can't get much better than this.


TORTAS:  As well as with the taco, the variety of the tortas is endless. Cut a roll/bun in half (either a bolillo or telera) and add whatever you want inside and you have a torta (a Mexican version of a sand which). A torta is my husband’s favorite lunch time meal although he would probably eat them for every meal if permitted!  



This is a torta prepared on a bolillo roll and fit for a king!  Just ask my husband.


This is a torta prepared in a talera roll (flatter and rounder than a bolillo roll) and stuffed with everything including the much loved salchichas (hot dogs) of Mexico.


QUESADILLAS: For a foreigner quesadillas can be confusing, since they share the same principle as a taco: a tortilla folded in half and filled with whatever you want and despite the name, it's not always cheese. The usual fillings for quesadillas are cooked mushrooms, chicken, or beef with red sauce, and potato with chorizo. And sometimes, but not always, cheese.



Quesadillas being prepared on the grill at the weekly San Miguel de Allende tianguis which are prepared with different colored corn masas.  

What is masa you ask. Masa is the traditional dough used to make corn tortillas. It is made with hominy, or dried corn kernels, that have been cooked and soaked in lime water and which is then ground into masa.

TOSTADOS: The base of this dish is a crisp, thin, round corn tortilla. A tostada can be topped with anything: beans and meat with shredded lettuce and salsa, fresh marinated seafood, or just sour cream with a little cheese. Birria which is similar to barbacoa, but made with goat instead of lamb, is a meaty, spicy stew. At every birria stand you can choose to order tacos filled with just the meat, with the broth on the side, or order the broth and the meat all together at once in a bowl.



One of our favorite taco stands in Puerto Vallarta is Tacos Robles a family run operation which has been serving great birria (goat) tacos since 1986.

A simple tostado is all so delicious and like a taco, you can never grow tired of them.


LATE NIGHT EATS:

Mexico comes alive in the evenings when families and friends come out to enjoy their town, the night life, and street eats.  This taco stand appears to be sponsored by a restaurant enterprise in Puerto Vallarta.  



ELOTES AND ESQUITES: These stands are out only at night (with a few exceptions), and sell Mexico's famous elotes: ears of corn skewered on a stick, then covered with mayonnaise, cheese, and chili. For esquites, the vendors remove the kernels from the cob and cook them with chicken broth and epazote (a Mexican herb that smells a little like a weird perfume or gasoline). The corn is served in a cup, topped with the same thing that goes on the elotes: mayo, cheese, and chili powder.  



The famous elotes of Mexico which is corn on the cob and all jazzed up a la Mexicana! 

Elotes and esquites are available in the evenings on the beachfront malecon walkway in Puerto Vallarta.  A perfect street food to eat while strolling.  I also see they offer carved mango on a stick! And maybe even grilled shrimp on a stick!  


Esquites are elotes which have been carved off the cob and then dressed up with the same dressing of mayo, cheese, and chili powder.  Cha, cha, cha!


CHURROS: Churros (the Mexican version of a sugar coated glazed donut) and chocolate are a classic late-night snack. For the street version of the churro, keep an eye out for carts that have a special system to fill the churro with different sauces: dulce de leche (caramel), chocolate, vanilla, or strawberry.  



Churros with fillings for the sweet tooth in all of us! Dulce de leche (caramel) is my personal favorite.  


AND THE GRAND FINALE:  HELADOS/ICE CREAMS

I found this corner heladeria particularly appealing and had to try out one of their exotic flavors. I was not disappointed.  

Mexico loves ice cream in all of its forms and all of its many flavors.  The variety of flavors is simply astounding and includes some of the most unusual and exotic ingredients we have experienced anywhere.



The fruit in this photograph will give you just a hint of the wonderful and many different flavors of ice cream to be found in Mexico.

You don't have to walk far in Mexico in order to find ice cream to satisfy your craving.  This was my favorite ice cream stand in San Miguel de Allende which packaged my choice para llevar (to go).

One of the most unusual helados (ice creams) and paletas heladas (ice cream popsicles) flavors include avocado. Trust me, you just have to keep an open mind and try it!

My goal is to try a different flavor each and every time we have an ice cream craving.


Christmas day at the Jardin (plaza) of San Miguel de Allende and everyone was lined up for their Christmas ice cream from this cart.  



In closing I feel I would feel remiss if I didn’t include the following for your consideration:                           

     An artistic rendering of Montezuma in all of his glory.


Many foreign tourists in Mexico shy away from street food because of concerns about getting traveler’s diarrhea (TD), aka “Montezuma’s Revenge.” 

Maybe we have been protected by the Aztec “gods” since we have never been victims of Montezuma’s revenge during the seventeen-plus years we have lived in Mexico. Having said that, I strongly recommend using your own best common-sense precautions and keep the following in mind:

*****  One way to distinguish a good street food vendor is if the stall or stand is crowded. Locals tend to know what is good and busy indicates that the food is safe and has not been sitting around. It is also better if the cook is not handling the money which can be possibly contaminated. And always drink bottled water or soft drinks to be on the safe side (beer is also acceptable!).

"Montezuma's Revenge" (a little history lesson):




The name refers to Moctezuma II (1466–1520), the Tlatoani (ruler) of the Aztec civilization, who was overthrown by the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes in the early 16th century thereby bringing large portions of what is now Mexico and Central America under the rule of the Spanish crown.


I cannot fault Montezuma for taking a little "revenge" after what the Spanish conquistadors did to his empire! Can you?


And there you have it! I hope you have had your fill and are feeling full, happy, and satisfied. I have enjoyed your company in one of my favorite activities: eating off the streets of Mexico.

The following link takes you to my photograph album:

MEXICO AND BEYOND: STREET EATS

Links for my previous postings on the subject of the foods and markets of Mexico:

MEXICO: TRADITIONAL INDIGENOUS MARKETS

MEXICO: ITS TRADITIONAL FOODS AND DELIGHTS


Please don't be shy. Us bloggers love receiving questions, comments, or suggestions. Until next time, safe trails and travel well.   Laura

                                     
   Memories are just a click away and the shrimp-on-a-stick vendor agrees!