Wednesday, October 31, 2018

DAY OF THE DEAD (DIA DE LOS MUERTOS) 2018

























It's that time of the year again when I share my favorite holiday in Mexico which is the Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) festivities. I consider this national festival so very special that this is my fifth consecutive blog posting covering this annual tradition. This year I will also be including the giant "Catrinas" that made their appearance on the Puerto Vallarta malecon last year for the first time. So let's refresh our memories as to what Day of the Dead is all about and what customs are associated with it.




The origins of the Dia de Muertos are rooted in Mesoamerican culture and possibly Aztec festivals that celebrated the goddess Mictecacihuatl. Like the memory of a loved one that never fades, Dia de Los Muertos also survives. It may change and evolve, but it has never vanished. The Spaniards soon realized this when they arrived in central Mexico in the 16th century. They viewed the ritual which was started by the Aztecs some 300 years ago as sacrilegious.


The Aztec Empire's influence extended throughout present-day Mexico and Central America. The multi-day holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to pray for and remember friends and family members who have died and to help support their spiritual journey. In 2008, the traditions of this national holiday was inscribed in the
UNESCO INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE LISTS


Day of the Dead celebrations run from October 31st though November 2nd each year coinciding with the similar Roman Catholic celebrations of All Saints Day and All Souls Day. November 1st is referred to as Dia de los Inocentes or Angelitos (Day of the Innocents or Little Angels) and is reserved for honoring deceased children while November 2nd is for deceased adults. While the idea of celebrating death might seem morbid in many societies in Mexico it’s quite the opposite. Death is not considered the end, but a new beginning.


The following traditions are also associated with the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico. All of them are unique and wonderful.


La Catrina 

This "video" creation was made from photographs taken on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta last year of larger than life "Catrinas." I am hoping she will return for an encore appearance this year. I found her story and history so fascinating that I wrote a separate blog posting two years ago which I invite you to enjoy at the following link:  LA CATRINA OF DAY OF THE DEAD FAME


Constructing Altars




The construction of altars is perhaps the principal custom of this longstanding celebration. Often decorated in vibrant oranges and purples before being piled high with ofrendas (offerings) such as candles, flowers, and personal possessions, these altares (altars) are generally more private affairs that are built at home.





However, in many communities such as Patzcuaro, Michoacan families construct them right at the graveside of the deceased. Nowadays altars are also prepared in most public buildings. The planning can often take months, but the results can be spectacular.





Altars are usually decorated with flowers, candles, pan de muerto, ceramic skulls, and most importantly pictures of loved ones. Food placed on the altar consists of the deceased favorite dishes and treats. Drinks are also placed in the altar to quench the thirst of the dead from their long journey back home. Isn't this simply wonderful!




Making Ofrendas (offerings) to the Dead




This custom goes hand-in-hand with the construction of the emblematic altars as families select a variety of ofrendas (offerings) which they believe encourage the deceased to return home and hear the prayers of their loved ones.





On November 1 (Día de los Inocentes) deceased children are offered toys and sweets while on November 2nd deceased adults are offered alcohol, cigarettes, and other favorite items including Mexican pan de muerto (sweet bread).




Using Cempasuchiles (Mexican marigolds)





While the flower named cempasuchil (Mexican marigold) is also known as flor de muerto (flower of death) it is worth mentioning in its own right. Mexicans believe that this flower helps guide their loved one’s soul back to the world of the living. Since this flower blooms only during the rainy season which precedes the Day of the Dead festival it has now become heavily and primarily associated with the festivities.




Sugar Skulls




This is a favorite photograph which is a real life painted "sugar skull" face and I think spectacular.


The term "sugar skull" actually comes from the Mexican Day of the Dead festivities and is perhaps the most globally emblematic symbol of both the holiday and Mexico in general. Sugar skulls represent a departed soul with the name written on the forehead and was placed on the home altar or gravestone to honor the return of a particular spirit.





Sugar skulls reflect the folk art style of big happy smiles with colorful icing and sparkly tin and glittery adornments. The reason they are called “sugar skulls” is because the authentic sugar skulls were made out of clay molded sugar, decorated with feathers, colored beads, foils, and icing.



Holding Graveside Vigils







Although some stay at home on the night of November 1st and the early hours of November 2nd holding graveside vigils is still common in many Mexican communities and is most definitely one of this celebration’s most iconic traditions. People go to cemeteries to be with the souls of the departed where they build private altars containing the favorite foods and beverages as well as photos and memorabilia of the departed.





The intent is to encourage visits by the souls in order that the departed will hear the prayers and the comments of the living directed to them. Celebrations can take a humorous tone as celebrants remember funny events and anecdotes about the departed. Another Day of the Dead tradition which I really like!


Eating Pan de Muerto






Another common tradition during the Day of the Dead period is the consumption of pan de muerto (bread of the dead). Fortunately this bread is not made from dead people irregardless of its name. It is actually a lightly orange flavored sweet bread which has skeleton bone-like decorations on top and which is covered with a healthy coating of sugar.


Cleaning and Decorating Graves






Although not all families can honor their loved ones at the cemetery itself, the tradition of cleaning the grave is still respected by most. This task usually includes cleaning up the area surrounding the headstone and leaving cempasuchil flowers.
A complete altar is often constructed here also. Graveyards during the Day of the Dead celebrations, contrary to what might be expected, actually take on the atmosphere of a festive social gathering.


Displays of Calacas




If you look closely at the female calaca you will notice a baby bump!


A calaca (a colloquial Mexican Spanish name for skeleton) is a figure usually used for decoration during the Day of the Dead festival. As with other aspects of this national festival, calacas are generally depicted as joyous rather than mournful figures. They are often shown wearing festive clothing, dancing, and playing musical instruments to indicate a happy afterlife.





Calacas also reflect the Mexican belief that no dead soul likes to be thought of sadly and that death should be an occasion for fond memories. This goes back to Aztec beliefs, one of the few traditions to remain after the Spanish conquest.


Sharing of Memories






And last, but not least, one of the most interesting of customs that takes place during the Day of the Dead festivities is the sharing of amusing anecdotes and memories about the deceased.




The fondness for telling funny tales ultimately comes from the believ that the deceased would rather not be remembered somberly, but cheerfully. This is a tradition often excluded from popular culture because of the highly intimate nature of it, but it is representative of the wide respect for oral traditions in Mexican culture. And I say bravo!






In my opinion some of the best places to enjoy the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico include the following: The island of Janitzio in Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Oaxaca, San Miguel de Allende, Chiapas, Yucatan, and of course, grandiose Mexico City.


For a fantastic video experience go to the following YouTube link and feel as though you are in Mexico City for the annual Day of Dead parade. Casting it to your television is definitely a fun experience.


  https://youtu.be/s03H9XQjH40




The larger than life Catrinas who made their debut on Puerto Vallarta's malecon (boardwalk) last year for the Day of the Dead celebrations sincerely appreciate your visit and look forward to seeing you again next year for the annual Day of Dead celebrations.




In closing, this link will take you to my DAY OF THE DEAD BLOG POSTING 2017 which links to my Day of the Dead postings for 2014, 2015, and 2016 in case you would like to learn and enjoy more of this amazing tradition and holiday.




With their best regards from Puerto Vallarta, the Catrinas of the Day of the Dead celebrations. 



    

                        
It's been a pleasure having you join me for the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico for 2018 and I look forward to your company next year for more of this amazing festival. Until then, wishing you safe travels and adventures where ever they may take you.  Saludos,  Laura







































Saturday, October 13, 2018

MAGICAL SINTRA, PORTUGAL

































Portugal without doubt has its share of quaint towns and villages, but Sintra in my opinion is undeniably one of the most unique and picturesque. Sintra is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in the country and for good reason. Sintra is home to a number of castles, palaces, and historical fortifications nestled atop the Sintra Mountains representing the best of Moorish design, Romanticist architecture, and Neo-Islamic styles. And with its  lovely mountains, misty forests, and exotic gardens Sintra is like a place created by the gods.



Sintra sprawls around the lower end of the Sintra Mountains (Serra de Sintra), a small mountain range in western Portugal. Sintra with its beautiful and historic village has been designated a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.  



And if that wasn’t enough, It was also necessary to create a special category for the purpose of CULTURAL LANDSCAPE taking into account Sintra’s natural riches as well as the historic buildings in the town and mountains. Endowed with luxuriant vegetation, the mountains are part of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park.  

Referred to as a storybook and fairy tale town, Sintra is a treasure trove of fascinating, mysterious, and enchanting sights which all add to its reputation as Portugal’s town of Romanticism. Filled with palaces and manor estates that were once inhabited by Portugal’s royalty and aristocracy, it is a feast for the eyes and an exciting destination to explore.




Sintra once served as the residence for many of Portugal’s royalty and aristocrats and it is not difficult to understand why.  From early times Sintra was the the place of choice for the settlement of various peoples who have passed through the Iberian Peninsula and left traces of their presence many of which are now displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Odrinhas in the outskirts of the town.


In the 19th century Sintra became the first center of European Romantic architecture. Ferdinand II turned a ruined monastery into a castle where this new sensitivity was displayed in the use of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance elements and in the creation of a park including local and exotic species of trees. Other fine dwellings, built along the same lines in the surrounding Serra (Sierra) created a unique combination of parks and gardens which influenced the development of landscape architecture throughout Europe.  



Sintra definitely captivated me during our stay and I was enthralled with its natural beauty and the fantastic palaces and historical sites. I would not hesitate to return to Sintra for more exploring and until then, I look forward to sharing Sintra in this blog posting. Here are a few examples of why Sintra seems to be straight out of a story book and why I found it so alluring:  

THE PALACE OF SINTRA



The Palace of Sintra (also referred to as the Town Palace) is the oldest palace in Sintra and there is no royal medieval residence in a better state of preservation in Portugal. Royalty lived here off and on from the 1400’s to the 1700’s and each successive occupant added a bit of their own personality. King Manuel I of Portugal was responsible for a lot of the interior decoration covering the walls with eye-catching ceramic tiles from Seville, Spain.




The Palace of Sintra in Portugal has been inhabited more or less continuously from the early 15th century to the late 19th century.  The palace has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and also a Culture Landscape Site.


The interior of the Palace of Sintra does not disappoint in its opulence and detail.

THE PALACE OF REGALEIRA


The 20th century Quinta da Regaleira (the Palace of Regaleira) is a Gothic architectural masterpiece that served as the private residence to many owners including the Viscountess of Regaleira (a merchant family from northern Portugal). The Regaleira Palace bears the same name as the entire estate which includes amazing gardens. The Palace of Regaleira is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO within the "Cultural Landscape of Sintra."  



In 1892 the Palace of Regaleira was sold to António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, a wealthy Portuguese emigrant from Brazil, who added his own personal touch reflecting his fascination with the Masons, the Knights Templar, and Divination. The structure's facade is characterized by exuberant Gothic pinnacles, gargoyles, capitals, and an impressive octagonal tower. Underground there’s a system of tunnels, grottoes, and deep shafts leading down to a sanctum for tarot ceremonies.  Sr. Carvalho appears to have been one interesting and unique dude!

Opulence was the name of the game and the Palace of Regaleira reflects that in spades.


And, of course, one must have their own private chapel if you are the owner of a palace!  


I found he images of previous kings in one of the halls of the Palace of Regaleira especially unique.

CASTLE OF THE MORROS




Perched on one of Sintra’s northernmost peaks are the ruins of the Castle of the Moors, a mighty medieval castle built by the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries. The castle was constructed as a military outpost on top of a mountainous cliff where it has a spectacular panoramic view of the municipality of Sintra. It was then later enlarged by the Christians after their reconquest of the Iberian peninsula in 1147. The castle consists of a double line of military walls which meander over the granite terrain of the promontory.




The walls have four square towers and snake with the contours of the mountain at the top of a sheer cliff.  The views from the castle over the peaks, bluffs and rocky spurs, out to the Atlantic and over to Sintra are absolutely stunning.  Its place on the hilltop, surrounded by and including the natural and exotic vegetation, accentuates the romantic character of the place. The Castle of the Moors is classified as a National Monument, part of the Sintra Cultural Landscape, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The Castle of the Moors was definitely my favorite of the many wonderful sites in Sintra.



Exploring the Castle of the Moors was definitely my idea of a wonderful time!  

PENA PALACE




Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the 1990’s, Pena Palace was built at the order of King Ferdinand II in 1838 on the lofty ruins of an old monastery. It was built as a summer residence and has amazing stucco work and trompe l’oeil painting inside with views that are incredible. The ostentatious architecture and elevated setting is similar to the Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, but Pena Palace is actually a couple of decades older. As was the fashion at the time, the palace combines many historical styles from Moorish to Renaissance.



Located in the Sintra hills, the Palace of Pena and Park are the fruit of King Ferdinand II’s creative genius and the greatest expression of 19th century romanticism in Portugal which definitely reflects clear influences from the Manueline and Moorish styles of architecture. The palace was built in such a way as to be visible from any point in the park which consists of a forest and luxuriant gardens with over five hundred different species of trees originating from the four corners of the earth.  Wow!




The entry hall of the Pena Palace is certainly stunning with its chandeliers and the knights standing guard!


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A nice little cozy space at the Pena Palace for some quiet time with no television!

CITY HALL OF SINTRA


Although not a castle or a palace I believe the City Hall of Sintra deserves recognition in its own right since I found it a beautiful structure.

The blue steeple of the City of Hall of Sintra I find especially lovely and appealing.


I loved Sintra with its natural beauty, culture, and people. The following link will magically take you to my photograph album of Sintra which includes captions. Until next time, enjoy your travels wherever they may take you and I look forward to seeing you again in the near future.  Laura

LINK TO SINTRA PHOTO ALBUM



                         
And in closing some wonderful words to live by from Sintra:


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