THE ZAPOTEC INDIGENOUS PEOPLE OF MEXICO

My husband and I spent over a year living in Oaxaca City, the capital of the state of Oaxaca, during our "nomadic life" with a recent nostalgic stay to revisit this amazing area of Mexico. I loved it all and now I look forward to sharing the primary indigenous people of this beautiful region of Mexico, the Zapotecs. Any people with the name and sound of the word Zapotec rates in my book so let's get acquainted!

A LITTLE BACKGROUND INFORMATION





The name Zapotec is an exonym coming from the Nahuatl language (tzapotēcah) which means "inhabitants of the place of sapote." Sapote is a name for a soft edible fruit which is common in Mexico. The Zapotecs, however, refer to themselves as "Ben Zaa" which translates to "The Cloud People.





The Zapotec civilization and culture is located primarily in the Valley of Oaxaca in Mexico which is located approximately 125 miles south of Mexico City. Pre-Columbian archaeological evidence indicates that the Zapotec culture goes back at least 2,500 years. In pre-Columbian times the Zapotec civilization was one of the highly developed cultures of Mesoamerica which among other things included a system of writing.





The current Zapotec population is estimated at approximately 800,000 to 1,000,000 persons many of whom are monolingual in one of the native Zapotec languages and dialects.The Zapotecs are concentrated in the southern state of Oaxaca, but Zapotec communities also exist in neighboring states.





There are four basic groups of Zapotecs: the istmenos who live in the southern Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the serranos who live in the northern mountains of the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca, the southern Zapotecs who live in the southern mountains of the Sierra Sur, and the Central Valley Zapotecs who live in and around the Valley of Oaxaca.





Many people of Zapotec ancestry have also emigrated to the United States where they can be found primarily in Los Angeles and the central valleys of California.





Though Zapotecs are now primarily Catholics although some of their ancient beliefs and practises such as the burial of the dead with valuables still survive. At the time of the Spanish conquest of the New World church and state were not separate in Zapotec society. In fact, the Zapotec ruler was trained in religious practice as a requirement prior to taking power. There were large temples built called "yo hopee" (house of the vital force) in which the priests performed religious rites.





As is true for many indigenous cultures, Zapotec women have historically been relegated to a lower place in society than men with their role primarily being in the context of marriage, childbearing, feeding and clothing the family, and household labor. More recently, however, Zapotec women are achieving a certain degree of independence and autonomy through their income from weaving.





THE ARTS AND CRAFTS

In the central valleys of Oaxaca, Zapotec villages often specialize in a specific art or craft. In those villages most of the population will participate in the production or marketing of their crafts. Visiting the local pueblos has become a great draw for visitors which is not only entertaining, but also valuable income for the local populace. Here are some of the well-known pueblos and their respective specialty.



In Ocotlan they are known for their whimsical clay figurines.



In San Bartolo Coyotepec they are known for their black clay pottery.



In San Martin Tilcajete they are known for their carved and brightly painted fantastical wooden figures called alebrijes.

In villages such as San Bartolo Yautepec where back-strap weaving is performed by women.

In Teotitlan, Santa Ana del Valle and Villa Diaz Ordaz rug weaving on large looms is done primarily by men because of the physical strength required.

Checking out the colorful handwoven rugs in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca;



In Santa Maria Huazolotitlan they are known for their handmade wooden masks.


THE HISTORICAL SITES OF MONTE ALBAN AND MITLA





Monte Alban, which is only five miles away from the center of Oaxaca City, was one of the first major cities in Mesoamerica and the center of a Zapotec state that dominated much of the territory that today belongs to the Mexican state of Oaxaca. The Monte Alban periods, of which five have been categorized, lasted from 500 BCE to the time of conquest in 1521 AD. Yet archaeological evidence from the site of Monte Alban, "the first city in ancient Mesoamerica," has revealed settlement of the region as far back as 1150 BCE.





Monte Alban contains great plazas, truncated pyramids, a court for playing the ancient ball game tlachtli, underground passageways, and about 170 tombs, the most elaborate yet uncovered in the Americas. The site is located on high ground probably chosen for its defensibility. The great plaza atop the highest hill is flanked by four platforms and two temples to the south. This is one serious archeology site and definitely worth more exploration.


The name Mitla is derived from the Nahuatl name "Mictlan" which was the place of the dead or underworld. Its Zapotec name is "Lyobaa" which means place of rest. The name Mictlan was Hispanicized to Mitla by the Spanish. I sincerely hope I have made that crystal clear!





Mitla, the Mesoamerica archaeological site, is located in the southern region of Oaxaca state approximately 30 miles southeast of Monte Alban and is one of Mexico’s best known ruins. I particularly enjoyed the ruins of Mitla and the nearby town because of its smaller size, its peace and quiet, and having our daughter with us to explore the area.





It is generally believed that Mitla which translates to "Place of the Dead" from the indigenous Nahuatl language was established as a sacred burial site by the Zapotecs whose influence was predominant until about AD 900.





Evidence of the central role of religion in the Zapotec culture is especially noticeable at the religious city of Mitla which is the second most important archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca and the most important in the Zapotec culture. Mitla is located approximately 30 miles from the city of Oaxaca and while Monte Alban was most known as the political center, Mitla was the religious capital of the region.





Between 900 and 1500 BCE the Mixtec (another indigenous group which we will be "meeting" through my blog in the future) moved down from northern Oaxaca and took possession of Mitla. It is the Mixtec influence that is most pronounced on the existing ruins. The Spanish arrived in Mitla in 1521 when the first European account of this region was made known.

The archaeological zone of Mitla includes five main groups of structures: Grupo de las Columnas (Columns Group) as seen above, Grupo de las Iglesias (Churches Group), Grupo del Arroyo (Arroyo Group), Grupo de los Adobes (Adobe Group), and Grupo del Sur (Southern Group) of which only the first two had been fully excavated and restored by the early 1980s.

When I see amazing stone structures, pyramids, or columns such as these I always ask myself how the "ancient ones" were able to carve and erect them. Don't you also wonder?





What makes Mitla unique among Mesoamerican sites is the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes, and even entire walls. These mosaics are made with small, finely cut, and polished stone pieces which have been fitted together without the use of mortar. No other site in Mexico has this. It is believed by some knowledgeable authorities that this fantastic fretwork at Mitla illustrates the religious importance of this ancient city in the Zapotec culture.


The following photos were taken at the ruins of Mitla showing the amazing fretwork. I found them on the Internet and was fascinated by the images and the age of the photographs. With my sincere thanks to the Internet "gods" for sharing.




Father introducing his daughter at a young age to the pleasure of visiting archaeological sites!

Exploring the ruins of Mitla and its amazing fretwork before color photography was widely available.

Mitla and its fretwork way back when. If you squint you can also see the dome of the Spanish San Pablo Apostol Church in the background. Wow!


THE GUELAGUETZA FESTIVAL





The Guelaguetza festival in Oaxaca predates the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors which validates its historical and cultural importance for the large Zapotec indigenous population in the Mexico state of Oaxaca. The name Guelaguetza is indigenous in origin coming from the Zapotec language which loosely translated means "reciprocal exchange of gifts and services." The following photographs are of this splendid annual event.

The Guelaguetza, or Los lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the Hill), is an annual indigenous cultural event in Mexico that takes place in the city of Oaxaca as well as in nearby villages. The celebration centers on traditional dancing in groups, often gender-separated, and includes parades complete with indigenous bands, native food, and statewide artisan crafts including pre-Hispanic style dress.





Each costume (traje) and dance usually has a local indigenous historical and cultural meaning. Although the celebration is now an important tourist attraction it also retains deep cultural importance for the peoples of the state and is important for the continuing survival of their cultures.





Zapotec and Mixtec are the two biggest ethnic groups in terms of population and area in Oaxaca, but there are also a number of other groups and all have their own unique traditions and speak diverse mutually unintelligible languages. The Guelaguetza celebration dates back long before the arrival of the Spanish and remains a defining characteristic of Oaxaca culture.





The origins and traditions of the Guelaguetza celebration come from pre-Hispanic earth-based religious celebrations related to the worship of corn and the corn god. In contemporary Oaxaca, indigenous communities from within the state gather at the Guelaguetza to share their native culture, mainly in the form of music, costumes, dances, and food. It is the most famous indigenous gathering of its kind in Mexico.





TIANGUIS MARKETS





One of the highlights of living in or visiting Oaxaca, both the city and the state, was the opportunity to visit one or more of the weekly traditional indigenous markets known as a tianguis in the outlying pueblos. The word “tianguis” derives from the Nahuatl (Zapotec) word "tiyanquiztli" which translates to "an open air-market on a fixed day."




Visiting Frida's lunch counter in the Ocotlan tianguis market was very unique as the owner was a total Frida Kahlo look-alike!


As foreigners residing in Oaxaca, Mexico it is where my husband and I would go when we wanted to feel more a connected with the Mexican culture and the community. We would buy fresh produce including exotic fruits and vegetables, eat at local food stands with traditional indigenous dishes, and absorb the ambience. Visiting the tianguis markets was one of our favorite past times and one of which we never tired.

Our favorite weekly tianguis markets which were near the city of Oaxaca included the following: La Villa de Etla Market on Wednesdays, Zaachila Market on Thursdays, and the Ocotlan Market on Friday which was our favorite. So let's go to the market!


TIANGUIS OF OCOTLAN





The tianguis of Ocotlan is probably one of the most traditional of the indigenous markets where every Friday it overflows into the streets and you can find the traditional Mesoamerican beverage, tejate, and Ocotlan’s famous nieves (ice creams) ready for tasting. The tianguis of Ocotlan is amazing with produce of every description and many items which we didn't recognize. Very challenging, but also very exciting.




Dried chilis or garlic anyone? Or maybe a pair of pants? Shop 'til you drop at the tianguis de Ocotlan!

If you are in the market for traditional handcrafted products including knives and cutlery then you are in luck at the tianguis of Ocotlan. Knife making is nothing new to Oaxaca where some of the best quality knives and cutlery in Mexico are crafted by the highly skilled artisans of Tlaxiaco and Ocotlan. The master artisans who create the intricate designs are part of a lineage in Oaxaca that dates back to colonial times when sword, knife, and machete production was in high demand.

Isn't this knife as seen at the Tianjuis de Ocotlan simply gorgeous!


TIANGUIS VILLA DE ETLA





Etla's market is a relatively small market right in the middle of town. Etla has its market day (Dia de plaza) on Wednesdays when the streets become full of vendors in true tianguis style. Etla is known for stocking a wealth of produce that is key to Oaxaca's great cuisine.

For this reason it is no surprise that Etla market is popular with chefs and aspiring cooks across the region who stock up on its famous "quesillo" cheese which is similar to mozzarella string cheese in texture, chapulines aka grasshoppers which may be bought in bulk, and special cuts of quality meat.




My husband and daughter were definitely in need of a break from shopping at the Etla market which is only a stone’s throw away from Etla’s church and plaza.


TIANGUIS ZAACHILA





Zaachila market is the most traditional of all the tianguis markets and is located in the once Zapotec capital of Zaachila village. The market prides itself on being essentially unchanged since its founding. The one exception is the fact that some barns have been added for the livestock.

Vendors and locals from the surrounding villages coming to Zaachila market to do business for all things needed for daily life. There are vendors who still sit on the ground with an outspread cloth displaying their merchandise. At Zaachila market you will find a vast array of flowers, fruit, vegetables, tools, seeds, dried goods, and much more.




The Zaachila tianguis is seriously worth a visit to experience the sights, sounds, and smells of a truly Zapotec market which takes place on Thursdays and which is only an hour drive from Oaxaca City.





The weekly visit to the tianguis market can make for thirsty work and the local women enjoy the Mesoamerican beverage, tejate, to recharge their batteries. Tejate is a non-alcoholic maize (corn) and cacao beverage traditionally made in Oaxaca with its orgin from pre-Hispanic times. It remains very popular among the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec peoples especially in the rural areas.


POSTSCRIPT

Benito Juarez, Mexico's only indigenous president, was of Zapotec origin from Oaxaca.



The smallest denomination of Mexican currency, but the most commonly used, is the 20 peso bill which features the statesman Benito Juarez, Mexico’s only indigenous president who was of Zapotec origin. Born into rural poverty in the southern state of Oaxaca, Juarez overcame a great many obstacles in his youth including being orphaned at age three. As a young man, he moved to Oaxaca City to study for the priesthood but left to study law, before moving into local politics. I say bravo to Benito Juarez!


A COUPLE OF CLOSING PHOTOS:

I couldn't help leaving Oaxaca and it's amazing Zapotec culture and traditions without two of my favorite closing tianguis photographs.




I like to think of this oxen as a willing beast of burden carrying his alfalfa hay home to enjoy after a day at the tianguis market.




Someone I know looks lost in the tianguis produce section and definitely ready to go home.

Thank you for joining me and my introduction to the Zapotec indigenous people of Mexico. I hope you have enjoyed and I look forward to seeing you again in the near future. Until then, I wish you well with wonderful adventures wherever your travels should take you. Saludos, Laura