SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS: A FASCINATING PLACE

The colorful Cathedral of San Cristobal de las Casas can't be missed.  

Please note:  This is an updated version of the original posting dated October 8, 2014.

I am fascinated with the Spanish colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas in the Mexican state of Chiapas. And I believe that this feeling is due to the fact that “San Cristobal” is a fascinating place. A part of why I find San Cristobal so fascinating is because it is so very, very different from other colonial cities and areas in Mexico. The geography and climate are a major factor in what makes San Cristobal unique. It is located in the mountains of the central highlands where the climate is cool and even cold during the winter months. To me there is something very intriguing and mysterious in this environment.

In addition, the predominant indigenous population of Mayan people is also very different in their appearance and style of dress, their cultural beliefs, and their religious practices from other parts of Mexico. This makes visiting San Cristobal and the state of Chiapas a unique and special experience. My fascination with San Cristobal and Chiapas is also based on the wonderful blend of contemporary Mexican culture with Spanish colonial roots, traditional indigenous Mayan culture, and a Euro-Norte Americano vibe. For this reason, San Cristobal is truly special and wonderful to me.



Walking through the colonial city of San Cristobal is a real delight.


I I have heard San Cristobal described as the city of churches and it is very appropriate.

The intrepid Spanish conquistadors were no slouches when it came to conquering the indigenous peoples of Mexico. They did this primarily through building towns based on the traditional Spanish city grid layout with many, many church thrown in for good measure. They brought their “Old World” sensibilities to the “New World” and the rest is history. To give the Spaniards credit where due, the colonial cities they created are still not only functional, but also very beautiful, charming, and interesting. San Cristobal is a prime example of this.



A mural depicting the life and times of San Cristobal.

I believe a little introductory information is necessary to give you a sense of where San Cristobal is located and a little about its history (especially since history is one of my great interests).

San Cristobal de las Casas is a town and municipality located in the Central Highlands region of the state of Chiapas. Chiapas and the state of Oaxaca are the two most heavily populated indigenous states in the country. The city was founded as Villa Real de Chiapa in 1528 by Diego de Mazariegos. From then on the city went through a number of name changes. It was changed to Ciudad de San Cristobal in 1829 and “de las Casas” was added in 1848 in honor of Bartolome de las Casas. In the Mayan Tzotzil and Tzeltal languages the name of the area is Jovel, the place in the clouds.



Can you find Chiapas on the map of the thirty one states of Mexico? Hint: its the color of purple!



Casa Na Bolom (House of the Jaguar) is a museum, small hotel, and restaurant and the founders were very well known local anthropologists who studied and helped the Lacandon Mayan people.



A cloudy sky is a dramatic backdrop to another lovely church in San Cristobal.

The city’s center maintains its Spanish colonial layout and much of its architecture with red tile roofs, cobblestone streets and wrought iron balconies. Most of the city’s economy is based on commerce, services and tourism. Tourism is based on the city’s history, culture, and indigenous population, although the tourism itself has affected the city giving it foreign elements.

San Cristobal was named a National Historical Monument in 1974. In addition, it was designated a “Pueblo Mágico” (Magical Village) in 2003 and it was further recognized as “The most magical of the Pueblos Mágicos” by President Felipe Calderón in 2010.



The Temple of Santo Domingo is simply stunning.



Municipal mercados are such a blast.



SHOCKING PINK AND ROYAL BLUE - WHY NOT??



A lovely Mayan woman and her son selling embroidered blouses (HUIPILS) at the municipal mercado.

Much of this culture is associated with the city’s and the municipality’s large indigenous population. Two of the most fascinating Tzotzil Mayan villages are San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan are easily visited.

These two highland villages are the home of the Tzotzil people, descendants of the ancient Mayans, and some of Mexico's most traditional indigenous communities. Each village has a distinctive highland dress as well as a weekly market and numerous festivals honoring their patron saint and other special religious days.



 Mayan women still weave on the back strap loom - a traditional and very portable device.

An indigenous woman creating a ceramic bowl without the aid of a wheel - some ways are best left unchanged.

The Tzotzil Maya village of San Juan Chamula (approximately six miles northwest of San Cristobal de Las Casas) is famous for its unique religious practices that blend Catholic and Maya beliefs. It has some of the most vibrant festivals in the highlands and its colorful Sunday market is not to be missed.

San Juan Chamula is the center for religious festivals. Its main attraction is the church on the plaza where every Sunday the village comes alive with streams of villagers who pour down the hills into the candle-lit, incense-filled church, and then congregate together for the weekly market. Their religion is a fascinating mixture of Catholic and traditional Mayan rituals. The women of Chamula are the region's best wool weavers and this can be seen in their distinctive traditional clothing of heavy wool skirts and woolen tunics for men.


Blue Mayan crosses cover the cemetery at the pueblo of San Juan Chamula.

Chamula is not to be missed on Sunday with religious services and social activities to fascinate all visitors.

Elders of San Juan Chamula in their heavy black woven wool tunics.



The residents of Chamula have blended elements from their traditional Mayan beliefs with elements from the Catholic faith - a very unique combination.



Mayan blue crosses and offerings to the traditional gods in the indigenous pueblos of Chiapas.

About four miles from Chamula is another Tzotzil-speaking community named San Lorenzo Zinacantan. The flower trade is the principal means that local people make a living and the hillsides are dotted with greenhouses. The geranium is a revered plant that is used in ritual offerings and can be seen across the countryside which is dotted with crosses and offerings dedicated to the ancestral gods or to the Earth Lord.

Zinacantan is one of the most colorful communities in the highlands and this can be seen in their brilliant red, blue, and purple clothing embroidered with large flowers and decorated with colorful tassels. Another unique addition to their dress is the flat round hat decorated with ribbon. Their textiles are very striking and unique in design and color. Much of their textiles are still made by back strap weaving, a tradition that has been practiced since ancient times.



The huipils of Zinacantan are very unique with the tassels adding a finishing touch not seen elsewhere - simply stunning!

Men and women of Zinacantan both wear the colorful traditional textiles made in their community.



Mayan weaving techniques are still practiced in the traditional manner and style.

The flat round hat with long ribbons is unique to Zinacantan and is worn by the indigenous men. Oh, no! Who is this impostor?



A visit to the church in Zinacantan is an appropriate way to give thanks to a wonderful visit and experience. Gracias!

I sincerely hope my fascination with San Cristobal de las Casas and the surrounding pueblos has piqued your interest and that you might want to seriously consider visiting this very special and fascinating area of Mexico. I believe you won't regret it!

I remember hearing many, many years ago that a picture is worth a thousand words. Well, I am a believer so below is the link to my web album which has additional photos for this posting. And last, but not least, the SLIDE SHOW of this web album follows for your immediate enjoyment.


SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS PHOTO ALBUM


I always look forward to hearing from my visitors. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any comments, suggestions, or questions. Until the next time, saludos and gracias, Laura

Memories are just a click away!

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY MEXICO 2014

       
                          HAPPY DIA DE INDEPENDENCIA MEXICO!    

                         

               Ignacio Allende, one of the leaders of the War of Independence


Mexico's most important and patriotic celebration is in honor of it's Independence from Spain in 1810. Each year its "birthday" is celebrated on September 16th with traditional and also contemporary festivities and activities. Dia de Independencia is celebrated in Puerto Vallarta with the traditional reading of the "Grito de Delores" (Cry of Dolores) on the main plaza followed by music, dance, and fireworks.


One of our favorite aspects of the the birthday celebrations includes the annual Charro Parade. Charros are the "cowboys" of Mexico who have maintained a very strong cultural tradition. The Charro Parade in Puerto Vallarta includes participants of both genders and many generations and is accompanied by marching bands. It is a lively and fun fiesta for both riders and observers alike. Until next year, here's wishing Mexico a happy, prosperous, and good year.     

              VIVA MEXICO AND HAPPY DIA DE INDEPENDENCIA!

The following link will givwe you background information of Mexico's Independence and its "Birthday":

latinamericanhistory.about.com/od/independenceinmexico/p/Mexicos-Independence-Day-September-16.htm

The additonal link will also give you background information on the Mexican Charro tradition of the Mexican cowboy: 

http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/887-charros-and-charreadas-a-mexican-tradition

And last, but not least, my photograph album:

MEXICO INDEPENDENCE DAY ALBUM

VERACRUZ, VERACRUZ: A WONDERFUL MELTING POT

Welcome to the exciting Mexican state of Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico! I refer to Veracruz as the state of wonderful variety because of the differences found in its cultures, climates, topography, cuisines, music, and industry. Each city and each region offers an intriguing opportunity to experience and explore what seems like many different states, but they are all conveniently wrapped up in one.

We will be visiting three very different cities which to me illustrate the wonderful variety to be found in the state of Veracruz. The first will be the exuberant city and port of VERACRUZ and is the subject of this post. My second post will cover the vibrant capital of XALAPA (aka JALAPA) and the enchanting colonial coffee town of XICO.

I believe it would be good idea to understand in general terms the climate of the state of Veracruz. The large variation of altitude in Veracruz results in a large mixture of climates from cold snow capped mountain tops to warm and wet tropical areas on the coast. Thirty two percent of the state is classified as hot and humid, fifty two percent as hot and semi humid, nine percent is warm and humid, six percent as temperate and humid, and one percent is classified as cold. Makes you want to grab a cold drink just thinking about it doesn't it! 

The city of Veracruz is classified in the hot and humid zone. The cities of Xalapa and Xico are found in the warm/temperate and humid category What this means is that there is a lot of climate variation which makes for interesting changes. So if you are ready, let’s go!

Driving from Mexico City or Puebla to the city of Veracruz we pass Pico de Orizaba (a dormant volcano) at 18,000 feet which is the highest in Mexico and third highest in North America.

 Veracruz is serious coffee country, but this is cactus, not coffee! 

Then we pass through the rich, productive countryside in the state of Veracruz.

Veracruz also has an abundance of rivers, lakes, and gorgeous tropical mountains to explore and enjoy.

NOW FOR YOUR LITTLE HISTORY LESSON:  

The city of Veracruz is officially known as “Heroica (heroic) Veracruz” because of its amazing role in the dramatic history of Mexico. Veracruz is a major port city on the Gulf of Mexico and is also the name of the municipality and the state in which it is located. When the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés arrived in Mexico in 1519 he founded a settlement here. 

He named it Villa Rica (rich place) de la Vera Cruz (true cross). This name was in reference to the area’s gold and also in dedication to the "True Cross" which was because he landed on the Christian holy day of Good Friday, the day of the Crucifixion. It was the first Spanish settlement on the mainland of the Americas. Over the course of centuries the city of Veracruz and the state of Veracruz have played significant roles in Mexican history.

Veracruz is Mexico’s oldest, largest, and historically most significant port since European colonization. It was the port of entry for the Spanish conquistadors who arrived in the “New World” to conquer the native people and for the Spanish priests who arrived to save and convert the native people to their Christian Catholic beliefs. Both the “men of the sword” and the men of the cloth” were unbelievably successful in a relatively short period to time.

The port of Veracruz was also the port of export for the country's natural resources, including vast amounts of silver and gold, that were plundered and shipped home to “mother” Spain. With time, the shipment of native food products and spices also became very lucrative. The “importation” of the Spanish culture, language, and religion would forever change not only Mexico, but also other Latin American cultures. The “New World” in the western hemisphere was to be forever changed after the arrival of the Spaniards.


There is a significant Mexican Navy presence in the large commercial port of Veracruz.

 Modern sculpture at the port of Veracruz. I think it's doubtful the Catholic Conquistadors would have approved of this art!

Veracruz also has a well-deserved reputation for being boisterous and fun loving with people dancing and listening to music in the plazas late into the night only to wake up early the next morning to drink coffee at the sidewalk cafes. The pre-Lent celebration In Veracruz with its colorful and riotous Carnival has been celebrated every year since it was started in 1866 during the reign of Emperor Maximilian. From what I understand it is one of the best Carnival celebrations in Latin America and not to be missed!

                                        

The action is a blur on a typical Saturday night on the plaza dancing under the hot tropical moon.


Carnival in Veracruz with gorgeous floats, gorgeous ladies, and hot, hot music.


The Plaza de las Armas, which is commonly referred to as the zocalo (an indigenous word for plaza) is the main plaza in Veracruz. It is a lovely tree-filled square which is the center of social and cultural life in Veracruz. It is occupied from morning until late at night with people playing dominoes, selling food, cigars, cold drinks, playing music and dancing.

A bird's eye view overlooking the cafes which surround the main Plaza in Veracruz. Cafe or rum anyone?

The Cathedral of Veracruz on the Plaza de Armas are built in the customary Spanish layout which embodies the heart and soul of Mexico.


This is classic Mexico: the presentation of the flag on the main zocalo (plaza) under the bell tower of the Cathedral 365 days a year.

The Plaza de las Armas is even more crowded in the evening when almost every night of the week the danzón is danced. This dance was brought over to Mexico from Cuba by refugees in the 1870's. It was originally restricted to the lower classes but eventually gained accepted by all levels of society. The state's best-known musical style is called the "son". A is a musical variation which traces its origins to Spain and developed during the 17th and 18th centuries. It is the state’s most popular musical style which shows influences from the many cultures who have lived in Veracruz including indigenous groups, Portuguese, Italians, Africans, French and others.

The traditional dances and dancers of Veracruz are stunningly beautiful!


Now that we have thoroughly exhausted ourselves with the exuberant city of Veracruz I believe it’s time to hit the road and head up to the lovely capital city of Xalapa and to the peaceful colonial town of Xico. Please see the following blog post for a visit to these wonderful places which are also in the state of Veracruz.

I remember many, many years ago hearing that a picture is worth a thousand words. Well, I am a believer so following is a link to my WEB ALBUM which has additional photos for this posting. 

VERACRUZ PHOTO ALBUM

I always appreciate hearing from my blog visitors. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any comments, suggestions, or questions. Until next time, saludos and muchas gracias. Laura

                                       Memories are just a click away!

BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA: A STUDY IN NATURAL BEAUTY

                 
The islands of Bocas del Toro are the essence and the mirror of Caribbean Panama. This archipelago has the perfect combination of nature with historical and cultural traditions. The incredible variety of aquatic species, coral reefs, mangroves, tropical forest, beaches with crystal clear water, and undisturbed jungles with a myriad of flora and fauna can take your breath away and leave you in total awe.

The lavender sunsets in the archipelago of Bocas del Toro are amazing!

Without doubt, the most famous visitor who arrived at this piece of paradise was Admiral Christopher Columbus on his fourth and final voyage to the New World in 1502 while searching for a passage to the Pacific Ocean. It goes without saying that he was someway confused or mislead, but I cannot help believe that he must have been seriously impressed by the beauty of the area. And in fact Columbus was so taken by the Bocas area that he affixed his name to many sites including Isla Colon (Columbus Island), Isla Cristóbal (Christopher Island) and Bahía de Almirante (Admiral’s Bay).



The reefs are teeming with marine life and waiting for you to visit.




Water taxis are the main form of transportation from the mainland and between the islands of Bocas del Toro and definitely a great way to see the area.


FYI: For those of us who might get a little confused as to how to address Admiral Columbus it depends on the speaker’s language. For example: English: Christopher Columbus; Italian: Cristoforo Colombo; Spanish: Cristóbal Colón; and Portuguese: Cristóvão Colombo. 





I really enjoy maps and this one was especially easy on the eyes for those who want to know the layout of Bocas del Toro.

Bocas del Toro is located on the northern Caribbean coast of Panama. Four hundred years after Columbus’s last voyage to the area, the province of Bocas del Toro was founded. Bocas del Toro translates to “mouth of the bull” and is the name of both the province and its capital. The province of “Bocas” extends from the lush tropical mainland to the islands of the archipelago which has 9 main islands, 52 cays (or smaller islands), and thousands of islets. The capital of “Bocas” is located on Columbus’s namesake island of Isla Colon and is the most populated and commercial of the islands.



This was one of the docks where we spent a lot of time swimming, snorkeling, and sunning in Bocas del Toro.  




The range of vibrant coral colors and types of coral is spectacular.




Our canine friend is the "official greeter" at our very eco-friendly and casual Bocas retreat.


The origin of the name Bocas del Toro is not certain. However, there are many theories which include, but are not limited, to the following: It has been said that when Christopher Columbus landed on one of the fantastically beautiful beaches he saw waterfalls in the form of "bocas del toro" (mouth of the bull). It has also been said that Columbus made note of a large rock on Isla Bastimentos that has the form of a bull lying down. Another theory suggests that the sound of the immense waves which pound on the large volcanic rocks on Isla Bastimentos makes a sound similar to the roaring of a bull. There is also the belief by the local indigenous people that the last "cacique" or chief of the region was known as "Boka (Boca as in "loud mouth"?) Toro." Whatever it’s true derivation, Bocas del Toro is certainly a unique and powerful name for a magnificent area.

Celebrating another birthday in Bocas with another beautiful night is certainly a wonderful birthday gift.

Bocas del Toro is also home to two national parks: Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park, Panama’s first marine park, and La Amistad International Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute operates a research station on Colon Island just northwest of Bocas Town. You may go to the following for more information:

http://www.stri.si.edu/english/research/facilities/marine/bocas_del_toro/

There is a local population of manatees in Bocas which may be visited by organized tours. Manatees are large, fully aquatic, mostly herbivorous marine mammals sometimes known as sea cows.These gentle giants are endangered and hopefully protection efforts will be successful.

A vast variety of accommodations are available in the Bocas area. Doesn't this tropical villa look lovely? Warning: you might never want to leave!

Bocas del Toro offers the modern-day visitor or “explorer” so much to enjoy and experience that I can’t help but believe that Senor Christopher Columbus would very much regret all he left behind! Bocas has lush tropical rain forests with abundant fauna and flora, sunny islands with beaches that compete with the Caribbean best, coral reefs set in crystal clear water, and mysterious mangrove islets for exploring.

Water, water everywhere and waiting to be enjoyed, explored, and treasured.




When we were in Bocas there was only one national beer for refreshment and this "still-life" photograph brings back some very cool and refreshing memories.




We had never seen a garden of starfish before and we were enchanted with this one.


The outer islands of Bocas del Toro are easily accessible by boat ride from Isla Colon and have some of the world’s most pristine waters and white sand beaches which are ideal for snorkeling, diving, fishing, surfing, or just relaxing in the tropical sun. The ecosystem on the islands is very diverse with hundreds of species of birds, fish, dolphins, monkeys, toucans, sloth, as well as other marine and wildlife including manatees.




The three-toed sloth are tree-living mammals and are found in the jungles of Bocas. With their slow metabolism and their very slow movement they are perfectly adapted to the tropical climate. See the following for more on sloths: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-toed_sloth



Taking a small and rustic water taxi to another beach to be "discovered" brings a smile to my face.

Bocas del Toro is also a fascinating mosaic of cultures including Spanish, Indian, English and French-speaking West Indian natives, Europeans, and North and South Americans.



An introductory swimming lesson for one of the local girls was great fun for both of us.




A colorful and fun-looking backpacker accommodation in Bocas town. This building is typical of the colorful clapboard construction in Bocas.


Culturally, the islands and the lowlands on the mainland around them support a distinct group of Indians, the Guaymas. They still live by fishing and subsistence farming, travel mostly by canoe, and reside in wooden, thatch-roofed huts. The Guaymi language is still commonly spoken, although many converse in Spanish, or Gali-Gali, the distinct Creole language of Bocas delToro that combines English, Spanish, and Guaymi. This dialect had its origins among the Jamaicans brought over to harvest bananas. Descendants of these workers are a major segment of the population. The third group found in the area is the “Latinos” of mixed Indian and Spanish ancestry. The blend of cultures makes Bocas del Toro a real delight and much more than just a "pretty place"!



Dining on the water and watching the local boats is a great way to spend a little time in Bocas Town, the capital and commercial center of the province of Bocas del Toro.



A diving beauty as seen in the archipelago of Bocas del Toro. An archipelago, sometimes called an island group or island chain, is a chain, cluster or collection of islands.




Oh, mama mia, another gorgeous setting sun on another gorgeous Bocas day.


There is definitely something to interest and enchant every type of visitor to the Bocas area. I realize and apologize if I am starting to sound like a travel agent, but my enthusiasm for the delights of Bocas is difficult to contain. So enough talk already.  It’s time to visit Bocas with additional photos at the following link to my album:

BOCAS DEL TORO PHOTO ALBUM


I hope they do justice to the beauty and magic of delightful BOCAS. Enjoy and gracias until next time! Laura

                                         Memories are just a click away!