MINERAL DE POZOS, MEXICO: AN EXCURSION BACK IN TIME

On the outskirts of town are sprawling old mines to explore. One of them, Mina Santa Brigida, has a trio of 50-foot-high smelting ovens dating back to the late 1500’s!

             WELCOME TO MINERAL DE POZOS! 

Mineral de Pozos (which translates to "Mineral Wells" and which is commonly referred to as "Pozos") is located in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico.  Although less than an hour's drive from either the large colonial city of Queretaro or the smaller charming town of San Miguel de Allende, it is a world away in appearance, atmosphere, and history. A visitor approaches "Pozos" through a dry chaparral desert landscape surrounded by the Sierra Gorda Mountains. With an altitude of 7,500 feet and vistas which run to the hundreds of miles it is truly awe-inspiring. There is a sense of magic about this formerly great mining area which was all but abandoned with the closing of its mines.

Some of the descriptions of Mineral de Pozos I have seen include the following which I find very telling and captivating about this unique town:  

"More than a ghost town in Guanajuato....." 

"Magical abandoned mining town in the high chaparral deserts of  Mexico.... an art and artisans community of tranquility and uncommon  beauty" 

"Mineral Wells ... a journey through time......

 "A ghost town comes alive as an artist colony"

Let's start our excursion with the following introduction to the history of Pozos.  I am a firmer believer that a little history will help us understand and appreciate the past glory of Pozos and its current charm.

Before the arrival of the Spaniards this region in Mexico was populated by nomadic indigenous tribes such as the Pames, Jonas, and others which were collectively known as the Chichimeca. In modern times only one ethnic group is customarily referred to as Chichimecs;  namely the Chichimeca Jonaz of whom a few thousand live in the state of Guanajuato.

The Chichimeca Jonaz are a group of indigenous people living in the nearby municipality of San Luis de la Paz in the state of Guanajuato.

In the middle of the Sixteenth Century after the discovery of silver in the state of Zacatecas, a leg of the Camino Real (the royal road)  passed through the valley below and to the north through the present day city of San Luis de la Paz. To protect the wagon trains moving north and south, the army established an outpost called Palmar de Vega, the first settlement of Pozos.

Old colonial ruins are a big part of the charm of Pozos as is the local way of life.

 Crumbling adobe walls and desert cactus are iconic images of Mineral de Pozos.

If only these remains could tell their story! 

Pozos was consequently born in 1576 as a mining town. It grew haphazardly alongside half a dozen other boom towns in the high, rugged central region that Mexicans call the Bajío. Around the same time, Jesuits arrived in the area to evangelize the local population. Legend has it that the indigenous people brought the priests silver that they mined in an area known today as Santa Brígida. The Jesuits then began to mine the area using European techniques which continued until approximately 1767 when they were expelled. 

The Catholic tradition is very much alive as evident by this lovely altar in Pozos. 

 Wandering through a cemetery I find fascinating and the in Pozos dates back hundreds of years.

With discoveries of silver and other mineral lodes just to the west of town, Pozos began to grow in importance as a mining district.   Within a few years Pozos began a boom period. By the last years of the 19th century the number of working mines had reached 300 and the population in Pozos had reached close to 70,000.

I find ruins intriguing and romantic regardless of their location or their culture. 

Art imitating the local scenery by local artist Sandra Mooring at her Pozos home studio.

The President of Mexico during this time, Presidente Porfiro Diaz, was one of the town's most important promoters. He elevated the town to the status of municipality and renamed it Cuidad Porfirio Diaz in his own honor (no big surprise there). Pozos achieved its height of prosperity during his presidency.  In the collapse of The Diaz government the second period of decline began in Pozos from which it would never recover. 

The quiet main plaza, Jardin Juarez, in San Mineral Pozos is a great place to relax and have an ice cream cone with a homemade flavor such as nuez de pino (pine nut)!

What a contrast!  A colonial bell and a modern microwave tower in the background! 

The metals mined in Pozos during it's boom years included gold, silver, mercury, copper and several others. Immigrants from France, Spain, Italy, England, and the United States and workers from the Mexican states of Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Mexico State, and Hidalgo all came to Pozos to seek their fortunes. The Mexican stock exchange, called the Bolsa de Valor, was founded to promote shares in Pozos mines.

It's obvious to me that this tree came before the old stone wall!

A cactus landscape and a cactus garden are both native to Mineral de Pozos.

The beginning of the Mexican Revolution in 1910, however, marked the beginning of the end for Pozos. The closing of mining operations during the fighting and the subsequent flooding of the mines combined with a dramatic fall in the world price of silver caused the mines to begin closing. The mines were gradually abandoned with the last mine closing in 1927.

Tumbleweeds began rolling in, residents left, and Pozos turned into a virtual ghost town.  By the 1950's there were perhaps only 200, or less, people living in Pozos. Not until 1982 was the significance of Pozos officially recognized when the Mexican government under President Jose Lopez-Portillo decreed Pozos a National Historical Treasure.

I think the stone arches of the colonial ruins make these buildings look as if they could fly away.

                                                                                                                     








 According to a recent census, the population of Pozos has grown to approximately 2,500 which includes 
farmers, herders, and people who commute to nearby towns and factories. It is also once again being inhabited by people from many parts of Mexico as well as a small, but energetic group of foreign expatriates, who are rescuing the old houses, plazas, and streets of Pozos. The surrounding area has centuries-old mines and nearby haciendas which evoke the riches of now-exhausted silver and gold deposits.  Que romantico!  

Jardin Juarez (named in honor of one of the most popular presidents to rule Mexico, Benito Pablo Juárez García) is the main plaza in Mineral de Pozos.

 Mineral de Pozos with its cobbled and hilly streets can be a real workout!

     San Pedro (Saint Peter) Parish Church in Mineral de Pozos.

Whether your passion is art, archaeology, painting, photography, sculpting, writing, hiking, biking, reading, or relaxing, Pozos offers a full range of options. Daytime can be filled with any number of interesting excursions into the surrounding countryside. Exploring ancient ruins, old haciendas, and churches are popular pastimes in Pozos. Visits to resident artists and sculptors provide an interesting glimpse into the creative talent that resides here.

POSADA DE LOS MINAS

  Out of the colonial remains of Pozos flowers bloom and a renaissance is taking place in this charming town.

  I am very fond of the aesthetics of rustic furniture although its comfort factor is definitely a challenge.

Scattered around town in Pozos are a number of art galleries, studios, and handicrafts stores to entice a visitor.  A number of these stores specialize in replicas of Pre-Hispanic musical instruments and jewelry made from semi-precious stones.  It is noteworthy that many of its present inhabitants are dedicated to the manufacture of pre-Hispanic instruments.

BEVERLY SKY, a fiber (fabric) artist and paper-maker from Boston, spends part of the year in Pozos. She is quoted as saying:  "for the price of a parking space on Beacon Hill," she bought an artist's home with 150-year-old walls and a triangular courtyard.  "This is classic Pozos," she said. "A little bit cold and chilly and then the sun." I simply adore the contrast of her art with the original rustic walls at her gallery.

Vibrant fabric art by Beverly Sky as seen at her wonderful GALERIA CASA DEL CIELO

A local hand crafts tienda in Pozos with all sorts of interesting offerings!

                                         
Pozos is known for its artisans who produce and play musical instruments based on ancient pre-Hispanic designs. Each piece is handmade by the very artisans who you will often find personally selling their creations around the Plaza Zaragosa.



Handmade traditional instruments, including drums, can be found at LA CASA DEL VENADO AZUL as can accommodations.




At the iron sculpture foundry and gallery of Arturo Cabrera architectural items are crafted in addition to whimsical iron creations. Also on display were ALEBRIJE style fantasy creatures similar to those found in Oaxaca.

                           Fabulous ALEBRIJE pieces are entirely handmade and hand painted - wow!

  The lovely courtyard of EL SECRETO B&B

Sculpture of an indigenous woman in garden of artist Sandra Mooring on the outskirts of Pozos.

Another studio and gallery belongs to DANIEL RUEFFERT, an artist who after spending three decades in nearby San Miguel de Allende, bought a home in Mineral de Pozos and invested in a restaurant.

   I am a great fan of the work of Daniel Rueffert now residing and creating in Pozos.              

I love cactus and this cactus garden at Galeria 6 and El Secreto B&B make me happy!  

After your fill of art and galleries it is possible to enjoy a rich selection of annual cultural events offered in Pozos. Each year during the month of July the feast of the Toltequity where musicians from different regions of Mexico gather in a Pre-Hispanic music festival. The festival celebrates Toltequity ethnic richness and diversity by promoting cultural and artistic exchanges between the peoples of the Chichimeca nation. The festival includes exhibitions, craft workshops, music, and other entertainment.  See list of other events held in Pozos near the end of this blog.

Mineral de Pozos, once known throughout colonial Mexico for its opulence and its thriving mining industry, has been a virtual ghost town for almost a century. It is experiencing a resurgence of interest on the part of visitors looking for an unique adventure.

On February 16, 2012 Mineral de Pozos was declared a  PUEBLO MAGICO in Mexico as part of the federal program that recognizes places and people with great cultural, culinary and artistic value.  Bravo!  

See the following for images of the celebration:  PUEBLO MAGICO: MINERAL DE POZOS

I hope you have enjoyed this excursion "back in time" and "now in time" at the charming town of Mineral de Pozos!  And if you need more of an excuse or reason to visit Pozos here is a schedule of events for the calendar year 2015 which will give you an idea of what may be expected in 2016. Please be sure to verify events and exact dates. Remember: In Mexico events and schedules can change without much notice so it's always a good idea to check ahead!     

January: Mines and Music Festival
February: Art Walk
March: Home and Garden Tour
April: Easter and Passion Play
May: Mariachi Festival
City’s Anniversary Porfirio Diaz Day
Mineral de Pozos’s Sound
Lord of the Works Festival
July: Toltequity Festival
Blues Festival
Art Walk
August: Mines and Music Festival
Home and Garden Tour
November: Day of the Dead
December: Christmas Fair


 I remember hearing many years ago that a picture is worth a thousand words. Those words definitely contributed to and inspired me in the creation of MEXICO AND BEYOND: LAURA'S PHOTO JOURNEY. Below you will find my WEB ALBUM WITH ITS SLIDE SHOW which has additional photos for this posting.

I sincerely appreciate hearing from my readers with their questions, comments, and suggestions. Until then, gracias and safe travels! Laura

                                                   Memories are just a click away!

                                               

CLICK ON PHOTO FOR SLIDE SHOW

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DIA DE GUADALUPE CELEBRATIONS IN MEXICO

Original Picture of Our Lady of Guadalupe shown in the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City. The Catholic Church considers the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe imprinted on the cloak of Juan Diego as a picture of supernatural origin.


The Virgin of Guadalupe (also known as La Guadalupana and Virgin Mary) is Mexico's patron saint and one of the most important religious figures throughout much of the Latin America world including the neighboring country of Guatemala. Each year in Mexico major celebrations and peregrinaciones (pilgrimages) begin on December 1st and continue daily until December 12th when the birth day of "Our Lady of Guadalupe" is celebrated.

Lovely young senoritas parade in honor of their beloved “Our Lady of Guadalupe (Spanish: Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe), also known as the Virgin of Guadalupe (Spanish: Virgen de Guadalupe), which is the title given to the Virgin Mary.


From the smallest of pueblos to the largest of cities in Mexico, including the capital of Mexico City, the Virgin is celebrated with the culmination of festivities on December 12th.  Throughout the country, including Puerto Vallarta, Guadalupe's feast day is celebrated on December 12th, a day which commemorates her appearance to Juan Diego on the hill of Tepeyac near Mexico City from December 9 through December 12, 1531.

Tens of thousands of people travel to Mexico City to visit the place where the Virgin appeared to the Mexican People. The holiday is a national fiesta that includes traditional music, dances. and fun attractions. Pilgrims bring presents to the virgin, usually bouquets of flowers while other visitors will perform dances and song for her. Some pilgrims walk on their knees on the stone street leading to the Basilica, asking for miracles or giving thanks to the virgin for a petition granted. The chanting, singing, and dancing can last throughout the night.

Many of the pilgrims make their way on their knees, carrying candles, images, and illustrations of her likeness to give thanks and to honor the Queen of Mexico.

On the days leading up to the 12th of December the faithful in Mexico begin the pilgrimage to the Basilica de Guadalupe in Tepeyac to pay homage to La Virgen.

The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico with its iconic gold crown

THE STORY OF GUADALUPE:

"The Story behind this celebration demonstrates how the Catholic faith gained importance in the hearts of the Mexican people. It is a story of miracles and faith which mark a change in the history of Mexico.


The Spaniards, after they conquered Mexico, had in mind the goal of converting the indigenous Indians into Catholicism. But the Spaniards encountered many difficulties because the Mexican people had existing strong beliefs in their many gods. It wasn't until the story of the Virgin of Guadalupe and Juan Diego that this started to change.


Juan Diego was a young indigenous Indian walking toward the Hill of Tepeyac on December 12, 1531 when he was stopped by the appearance of the Virgin Mary. The Virgin Mary appearing to Juan Diego was a young woman with black hair and dark skin which looked more like an indigenous person. She ordered Juan Diego to go to the Bishop and ask him to build a church at the Hill of Tepeyac. Juan Diego then ran to the Bishop to tell him what the Virgin Mary had told him. The Bishop didn't believe what this young men was telling him and decided to ignore the petition.


The Virgin Mary appeared again in front of Juan Diego and told him to collect flowers from the top of the hill, but because it was December Juan Diego knew that there was not going to be any flowers at the rocky hill. Upon reaching the top of the hill, Juan Diego was surprised to see that it was covered with colorful and beautiful flowers. Juan Diego, as he was asked to, collected the flowers using his overcoat and ran again to see the Bishop.


Juan Diego gave the coat full of flowers to the bishop, and here the bishop discovered the image of Virgin Mary's picture was miraculously traced on the coat. Seeing both the unseasonal flowers and the image of the Virgin, the Bishop realized Juan Diego had told him the truth and The Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe was built on the hill of Tepeyac in Mexico City."
Source Credit

An outdoor lovely shrine to honor the Virgin of Guadalupe in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

MORE OF THE STORY:  "According to legend the Dark Virgin of Guadalupe (aka Coatlaxopeuh and Tonantzin) appeared before the peasant Juan Diego only ten years after the Spanish conquest. The symbolism of the Virgin of Guadalupe can be interpreted from both indigenous and Spanish perspectives. Whether or not the Virgin of Guadalupe actually appeared to the indigenous peasant Juan Diego in 1531 at Tepeyac Hill is a question of faith. What is certain is that the cultural significance of her image for Latinos across the Americas is indelible.

According to anthropologists, the duality of her symbolism spoke to both Spanish and indigenous Nahuatl audiences in the sixteenth century.

Her very name, Guadalupe is the Spanish pronunciation of the Nahuatl name Coatlaxopeuh, a Mesoamerican fertility goddess.The well-known image is, according to scholars, full of a number of symbols that strongly relate it with the culture and history of the indigenous people." Source Credit

    Visiting with Guadalupe devotees in Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, Mexico

The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe is of a woman with brown skin.  This, and the fact that the account of her apparition to Juan Diego was related in texts in both Nahuatl and Spanish during the time of the Conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, make her the ideal unifying force for what Mexico was to become:  a mestizo blend of native and Spanish blood. The Virgin of Guadalupe is also identified with the Aztec earth goddess and mother of humankind.

In many ways, the image of La Guadalupana is one that unifies and reconciles Mexico's history and blends its Spanish and Aztec heritage.  She is sometimes called the "first mestiza" or the "first Mexican." 

Aztec dancers also participate in the annual Dia de Guadalupe parades in tribute to Juan Diego, the Aztec peasant, who witnessed the apparition of the the Virgin in 1531.

The legend of Juan Diego meeting the Lady of Guadalupe is also credited with the linking the polytheistic beliefs of the indigenous people of Mexico and Latin America with the Virgin Mary.  "Our Lady of Guadalupe" (Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe) is considered a "Marian apparition" which is a supernatural appearance by the Virgin Mary and a 16th century Roman Catholic icon. Guadalupe is also Mexico's most popular religious image.

The original image of the Virgin of Guadalupe is of a woman with brown skin. This photograph was taken in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, at one of the municipal markets and was decorated with Christmas ornaments.

 

                              Juan Diego by Miguel Cabrera, 1752

Juan Diego born 1474 in Cuyauhtitlan, Mexico and died 1548 in Tepeyac, Mexico

A modern day Juan Diego continues the tradition of Dia de Guadalupe celebrations in Mexico.

 Music is a vital part of the annual Dia de Guadalupe celebrations throughout Mexico and it is no different in Puerto Vallarta.   

More Aztec dancers marching in their colorful traditional wear while beating drums and shaking maracas rattles filled with seeds or pebbles.

Three children dressed in their traditional "Dia de Guadalupe" finery as seen at La Merced Church festivities in Antigua, Guatemala.

Greetings from this young senorita at the Dia de Guadalupe celebrations in Antigua, Guatemala

In 1745 Pope Benedict XIV declared Our Lady of Guadalupe patron of what was then called New Spain which corresponded to Spanish Central and Northern America.  Pope Leo XIII authorized coronation of her image in 1895.  Pope Saint Pius X proclaimed her patron of Latin America in 1910.  In 1935 Pope Pius XI had a monument in her honor erected in the Vatican Gardens.  In 1992 Pope John Paul II dedicated a chapel in her honor within St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican.  He also decreed Our Lady of Guadalupe patron of the Americas in 1999.  And finally, Pope John Paul II canonized Juan Diego, the Mexican peasant, in 2002 who first witnessed the apparition of the Virgin.

This muchacho is dressed as a young Juan Diego at the Dia de Guadalupe celebrations in Antigua, Guatemala and is my favorite "Juan Diego."

 Father and son dressed in their "peasant" finery representing Juan Diego during the Puerto Vallarta parades.  Please note the "bigote,"or moustache, which is a must for both Papa and nino!

I believe this was the youngest "Juan Diego" participant I saw in the annual Dia de Guadalupe celebrations in Antigua, Guatemala.  Que lindo!


The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Spanish: Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe) is a Roman Catholic church, basilica and National shrine of Mexico in the north of Mexico City. The shrine was built near the hill of Tepeyac where Our Lady of Guadalupe is believed to have appeared to Saint Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. This site is also known as La Villa de Guadalupe or, in a more popular sense, simply La Villa, as it has several churches and related buildings. The new Basilica houses the original tilma (or cloak) of Juan Diego which holds the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. One of the most important pilgrimage sites of Catholicism, the basilica is visited by several million people every year, especially around 12 December, Our Lady of Guadalupe's Feast day.

 HISTORY OF THE BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE

A mural and tribute to Our Lady of Guadalupe (aka Virgin Mary) as seen in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

 Another "Juan Diego" celebrating the birth of Our Lady of Guadalupe at La Merced Church in Antigua, Guatemala.

There are eleven nights of parades in Puerto Vallarta in honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe who is also the patron saint of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, known locally as La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, in Puerto Vallarta.



Celebrating Dia de Guadalupe in Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, Mexico and aren't you handsome and proud!

This photograph was taken in San Miguel de Allende where an altar/shrine had been set up in honor of the Virgin - simply lovely!


Irregardless of personal beliefs or persuasions DIA DE LA VIRGEN DE GUADALUPE is one of the most important and celebrated occasions in Latin America which is certainly true in Mexico and Guatemala. Feliz cumpleanos (happy birthday) to Our Lady of Guadalupe! I have included photographs which were taken during the Dia de Guadalupe celebrations while living in both Mexico and Guatemala. I hope you enjoy.

DIA DE GUADALUPE PHOTO ALBUM

I remember hearing many years ago that a picture is worth a thousand words. Those words definitely contributed to and inspired me in the creation of MEXICO AND BEYOND: LAURA'S PHOTO JOURNEY. I sincerely appreciate hearing from my readers with questions, comments, and suggestions. Until then, gracias and safe travels! Laura

                                        Memories are just a click away!