DIA DE LOS MUERTOS CELEBRATIONS REVISITED 2022

It's that time of the year again when I share my favorite holiday in Mexico which is the Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) festivities. I consider this national festival so very special that this is my fifth consecutive blog posting covering this annual tradition. This year I will also be including the giant "Catrinas" that made their appearance on the Puerto Vallarta malecon last year for the first time. So let's refresh our memories as to what Day of the Dead is all about and what customs are associated with it.

  

The origins of the Dia de Muertos are rooted in Mesoamerican culture and possibly Aztec festivals that celebrated the goddess Mictecacihuatl. Like the memory of a loved one that never fades, Dia de Los Muertos also survives. It may change and evolve, but it has never vanished. The Spaniards soon realized this when they arrived in central Mexico in the 16th century. They viewed the ritual which was started by the Aztecs some 300 years ago as sacrilegious.

The Aztec Empire's influence extended throughout present-day Mexico and Central America. The multi-day holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to pray for and remember friends and family members who have died and to help support their spiritual journey. In 2008, the traditions of this national holiday was inscribed in the UNESCO INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE LISTS.

Day of the Dead celebrations run from October 31st though November 2nd each year coinciding with the similar Roman Catholic celebrations of All Saints Day and All Souls Day. November 1st is referred to as Dia de los Inocentes or Angelitos (Day of the Innocents or Little Angels) and is reserved for honoring deceased children while November 2nd is for deceased adults. While the idea of celebrating death might seem morbid in many societies in Mexico it’s quite the opposite. Death is not considered the end, but a new beginning.

The following traditions are also associated with the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico. All of them are unique and wonderful.

La Catrina 

This "video" creation was made from photographs taken on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta last year of larger than life "Catrinas." I am hoping she will return for an encore appearance this year. I found her story and history so fascinating that I wrote a separate blog posting a few years ago which I invite you to enjoy at the following link:  LA CATRINA OF DAY OF THE DEAD FAME

Constructing Altars

The construction of altars is perhaps the principal custom of this longstanding celebration. Often decorated in vibrant oranges and purples before being piled high with ofrendas (offerings) such as candles, flowers, and personal possessions, these altars are generally more private affairs that are built at home.

However, in many communities such as Patzcuaro in Michoacan families construct them right at the graveside of the deceased. Nowadays altars are also prepared in most public buildings. The planning can often take months, but the results can be spectacular.

Altars are usually decorated with flowers, candles, pan de muerto, ceramic skulls, and most importantly pictures of loved ones. Food placed on the altar consists of the deceased favorite dishes and treats. Drinks are also placed in the altar to quench the thirst of the dead from their long journey back home. Isn't this simply wonderful!

Making Ofrendas (offerings) to the Dead

This custom goes hand-in-hand with the construction of the emblematic altars as families select a variety of ofrendas (offerings) which they believe encourage the deceased to return home and hear the prayers of their loved ones.

On November 1 (Dia de los Inocentes) deceased children are offered toys and sweets while on November 2nd deceased adults are offered alcohol, cigarettes, and other favorite items including Mexican pan de muerto (sweet bread).

Using Cempasuchiles (Mexican marigolds)

While the flower named cempasuchil (Mexican marigold) is also known as flor de muerto (flower of death) it is worth mentioning in its own right. Mexicans believe that this flower helps guide their loved one’s soul back to the world of the living. Since this flower blooms only during the rainy season which precedes the Day of the Dead festival it has now become heavily and primarily associated with the festivities.

Sugar Skulls

This is a favorite photograph which is a real life painted "sugar skull" face and I think spectacular.

The term "sugar skull" actually comes from the Mexican Day of the Dead festivities and is perhaps the most globally emblematic symbol of both the holiday and Mexico in general. Sugar skulls represent a departed soul with the name written on the forehead and was placed on the home altar or gravestone to honor the return of a particular spirit.

Sugar skulls reflect the folk art style of big happy smiles with colorful icing and sparkly tin and glittery adornments. The reason they are called “sugar skulls” is because the authentic sugar skulls were made out of clay molded sugar, decorated with feathers, colored beads, foils, and icing.

Holding Graveside Vigils

Although some stay at home on the night of November 1st and the early hours of November 2nd holding graveside vigils is still common in many Mexican communities and is most definitely one of this celebration’s most iconic traditions. People go to cemeteries to be with the souls of the departed where they build private altars containing the favorite foods and beverages as well as photos and memorabilia of the departed.

The intent is to encourage visits by the souls in order that the departed will hear the prayers and the comments of the living directed to them. Celebrations can take a humorous tone as celebrants remember funny events and anecdotes about the departed. Another Day of the Dead tradition which I really like!

Eating Pan de Muerto

Another common tradition during the Day of the Dead period is the consumption of pan de muerto (bread of the dead). Fortunately this bread is not made from dead people irregardless of its name. It is actually a lightly orange-flavored sweet bread which has skeleton bone-like decorations on top and which is covered with a healthy coating of sugar.

Cleaning and Decorating Graves

Although not all families can honor their loved ones at the cemetery itself, the tradition of cleaning the grave is still respected by most. This task usually includes cleaning up the area surrounding the headstone and leaving cempasuchil flowers.

A complete altar is often constructed here also. Graveyards during the Day of the Dead celebrations, contrary to what might be expected, actually take on the atmosphere of a festive social gathering.

Displays of Calacas

If you look closely at the female calaca you will notice a baby bump!

A calaca (a colloquial Mexican Spanish name for skeleton) is a figure usually used for decoration during the Day of the Dead festival. As with other aspects of this national festival, calacas are generally depicted as joyous rather than mournful figures. They are often shown wearing festive clothing, dancing, and playing musical instruments to indicate a happy afterlife.

Calacas also reflect the Mexican belief that no dead soul likes to be thought of sadly and that death should be an occasion for fond memories. This goes back to Aztec beliefs, one of the few traditions to remain after the Spanish conquest.

Sharing of Memories

And last, but not least, one of the most interesting of customs that takes place during the Day of the Dead festivities is the sharing of amusing anecdotes and memories about the deceased.

The fondness for telling funny tales ultimately comes from the belief that the deceased would rather not be remembered somberly, but cheerfully. This is a tradition often excluded from popular culture because of the highly intimate nature of it, but it is representative of the wide respect for oral traditions in Mexican culture. And I say bravo!

In my opinion some of the best places to enjoy the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico include the following: The island of Janitzio in Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Oaxaca, San Miguel de Allende, Chiapas, Yucatan, Puerto Vallarta, and of course, grandiose Mexico City.

The larger than life Catrinas who made their debut on Puerto Vallarta's malecon (boardwalk) recently for the Day of the Dead celebrations. I sincerely appreciate your visit and look forward to seeing you again next year for the annual Day of the Dead celebrations.

The following link will take you to my DAY OF THE DEAD BLOG POSTING 2017 which links to my Day of the Dead postings for 2014, 2015, and 2016 in case you would like to learn and enjoy more of this amazing tradition and holiday. With their best regards from Puerto Vallarta, the Catrinas of the Day of the Dead celebrations. 

The following images were taken just a few days ago on the Puerto Vallarta Malecon with largest-than-life Catarinas.  

And now for the mega gran catrina! 

 

This is the largest Catrina ever to grace the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta.  I say bravo!  

It's been a pleasure having you join me for the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico for 2022 and I look forward to your company next year for more of this amazing festival. Until then, wishing you well whever your travels and adventures may take you.  Cheers,  Laura

TEQUILA AND MEZCAL: LIBATIONS OF THE MEXICAN "GODS"

                         

Whether distilled drinks were produced in Mexico before the Spanish Conquest is unknown. At some point, however, the Spaniards were introduced to native fermented drinks such as pulque made from the maguey plant. Pulque, or octli, is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant. Is traditional to central Mexico where it has been produced for millennia. Soon thereafter the conquistadors began experimenting with the agave plant to find a way to make a fermented mash. The result was mezcal.

What is the difference between mezcal and tequila? Tequila is typically produced by steaming the agave inside industrial ovens before being distilled two or three times in copper pots. Mezcal, on the other hand, is cooked inside earthen pits that are lined with lava rocks and filled with wood and charcoal before being distilled in clay pots.

The term mezcal is derived from the Nahuatl word for cooked agave, the paramount plant involved in the spirit’s production. While its tall, spiky green leaves are an iconic emblem of mezcal it’s the pina, the rounded stem that resembles a pineapple, that is used to make the spirit.

                                    

Both mezcal and tequila are made from agave so what’s the difference between them? Basically, tequila is a type of mezcal. While mezcal can be produced from up to 50 species of the agave plant, tequila can be made from just one, the agave tequilana Weber, or the weber blue agave. 

Additionally, agave that’s earmarked for Tequila is steamed in ovens while the plant is often roasted in underground pits for mezcal which can provide a distinctive smoky note. So tequila is a type of mezcal, but mezcal is not tequila. Got it?       

Tequila can only be made from one type of agave Blue Agave or Weber Agave. Unlike tequila, mezcal is a spirit that can be produced from upwards of 28 varieties of the agave plant from many areas of Mexico including Oaxaca to some areas of the states of Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosi, and Zacatecas. The flavor profile of mezcal is very different from tequila because it is typically smokier. The above photo is of our amazing daughter who joined us on the "tequila tour."  

Agaves or magueys are found mainly in many parts of Mexico and south to the equator though most mezcal is made in Oaxaca. Mezcal can also be made in Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, San Luis Potosi, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Michoacan, and recently approved Puebla.  

 

                              

I find this comment very true and it makes me laugh: A saying attributed to Oaxaca regarding the drink is "Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, tambien." ("For everything bad, mezcal, and for everything good, as well.")

On the most basic level tequila tends to have a smooth sweet flavor whereas mezcal is often described as savory and smoky. The smoky quality is usually attributed to the underground ovens used to cook the agave. Today, mezcal is still made from the heart of the agave plant called the pina, or pineapple, in much the same way as it was 200 years ago.

In Mexico Mezcal is generally consumed straight and has a strong smoky flavor. Mezcal is not as popular as tequila which is made specifically from the blue agave in select regions of the country.  Mexico is now exporting Mescal to other countries including Japan and the United States and exports are growing.

   

     

Agave tequilana, commonly called blue agave or tequila agave, is an agave plant that is an important economic product of Jalisco, Mexico due to its role as the base ingredient of tequila and isn't it beautiful!

Thank you for joining me at Mexico and Beyond:  Laura's Photo Journey.  I think I might have gotten a little carried away in this posting, but I will blame it on "Libations of the Mexican  gods" and I say cheers to that!  

Until we meet again, wishing you well wherever your travels and adventures take you. Saludos, Laura

CHICANO PARK STREET ART, SAN DIEGO CALIFORNIA

My husband and I are natives of California and San Diego is definitely one of our favorite areas in California to visit when we want to visit family.  The city has great museums, long beautiful beaches, and a world class zoo. 

But what can be missing from these popular venues is a sense of the city’s rich Latino culture. If you want to understand this side of San Diego you definitely should visit San Diego Chicano Park's murals. When you do you will be rewarded with a big visual WOW! These vertical murals are all over the park turning what would otherwise be a modest playground into a living museum of the Mexican-American experience.

              

Muralists and street artists are the "tricksters"of public art. They play with scale making familiar objects giant. They create monuments to people and moments in history they deem heroic. 

From hidden alleys to busy streets, they highlight San Diego's unique landscape and show off the city's creativity.  Chicano Park is the geographic and emotional heart of Barrio Logan located in Logan Heights, San Diego's oldest Mexican-American neighborhood.

Visitors come from all over to see the monumental murals arching overhead like an outdoor cathedral to community activism. In the early 20th century the area had been a middle-class neighborhood, a place where families gathered for parties and children played at the beach. Things changed when World War II broke out and the neighborhood lost its beach to the Navy and defense industries. 

In the 1960s the California Department of Transportation built the I-5 freeway through the area demolishing homes and splitting the neighborhood in two. To compensate, residents were promised that the land under the Coronado Bridge would be turned into a park, something the community had wanted for years. More time went by, but no park appeared.

Then on April 22, 1970 residents learned that the promise had been rescinded and the land would be used for a California Highway Patrol station. Definitely not what the locals had in mind! The local community rallied quickly to halt construction. Hundreds of men, women, and children converged on the site forming a human chain around bulldozers. They occupied the space for twelve days attracting the attention of government officials.

Months of negotiation followed as city and state agencies argued questions of land use and ownership. Residents, led by the Chicano Park Steering Committee, kept up pressure. The artist Salvador Torres proposed to transform the bridge's massive concrete pylons into a towering canvas for expression in the spirit of the Mexican Mural Movement.

The formation of Chicano Park was finally signed into law in 1971 and mural painting began two years later. At first it was an exuberant, unconstrained explosion of color as hundreds of people "attacked the wall with rollers," according to Torres.

He together with many local artists including Guillermo Aranda, Yolanda Lopez, Victor Ochoa and groups such as Toltecas en Aztlan and Congresso de Artistas Chicanos en Aztlan, continued to guide the aesthetic development of the park. As years passed more artists from across California were invited to contribute producing a range of Pre-Columbian, colonial, modern, and contemporary imagery.

In 2011 and 2012 almost two dozen murals were restored with federal funding. Many of the original artists did the work themselves aided by friends and family. The restoration received a "Grand Orchid" award from the San Diego Architectural Foundation which called the revitalized project "stunning." It also received recognition from the California Office of Historic Preservation, Save Our Heritage Organization, and the San Diego City Council and Mayor.

The Chicano Park Steering Committee maintains a map of the murals on their website along with details about the artwork.  The free annual family-friendly celebration features beautiful costumes and cultural pride of performers like Danza Azteca Calpulli Mexihca along with live bands, a lowrider car show, art workshops for kids, and food and craft vendors.

Chicano Park is best seen in the daylight to appreciate the vibrant color of the murals, but the surrounding area has nighttime offerings too. As with all urban parks, use common sense when it comes to safety after dark.

Chicano Park Museum is currently virtual but contains an extensive archive of photos and stories. Until the museum is up and running visitors can arrange tours of the park through the Steering Committee. Tours are led by volunteers who were involved in the original takeover as well as those who have guided and protected the park since then. There is no charge, but advance reservations are required.

The importance of Chicano Park to San Diego is best summed up by the late Ramon "Chunky" Sanchez, a much-loved activist, musician, and creator of the heartfelt anthem "Chicano Park Samba" who is quoted as saying: 

"There is an energy there that's hard to describe when you see your people struggling for something positive which is very inspiring. The park was brought about by sacrifice and it demonstrates what a community can do when they stick together and make it happen."

The following are some of the additional photographs which my husband and I took while exploring this amazing park.  Enjoy!

The Aztec ruler Montezuma is represented in all of his stunning glory.

This image represents the Latin migrant workers who help put food on our tables.

    

Frida Kahlo is remembered as one of the greatest of the Mexican muralists, but I can only imagine that she never thought she would be on display under a freeway overpass!

   

                           

And in appreciation to the migrant laborers who bring their strength and courage to North America.

And finally in tribute to Benito Pablo Juarez who served as the 26th President of Mexico. He was a Mexican lawyer and politician and served as the 26th president of Mexico from 1858 until his death in 1872. He was the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin and is especially revered in Mexico. Bravo!

I sincerely hope you have enjoyed my introduction to San Diego's Chicano Park. I found the park very very special and unique. Until next time wishing you well wherever your travels and adventures may take you. Saludos, Laura

Hanging out with a new "amiga" in Old Town Puerto Vallarta