Wednesday, August 13, 2014

OAXACA, OAXACA: AN AMAZING CITY


         OAXACA AND THE ICONIC CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO

                         

After living in and loving the state of Yucatan, Mexico it was time to move on. I had what my husband calls my “itchy feet” syndrome which manifests itself approximately every eighteen months, more or less. And when the feet get the itch to hit the road there is no denying them. After taking many factors into consideration we decided that our next living adventure would be in Oaxaca, the city and capital of the state of Oaxaca. We had visited Oaxaca as visitors twice in the early years after we moved to Mexico and remembered it as a fascinating place. It was time to relocate and become Oaxaquenos as the natives and residents of Oaxaca are called.



Can you find the state of Oaxaca? Hint: it's in the southern part of Mexico and its color is Green.


It is never too soon to learn the traditional dances of Oaxaca!


Colorful and traditional folkloric dances in the square of the Basilica del Nuestra Senora de La Soledad in Oaxaca City.


 
The Church and former monastery of Santo Domingo is the setting of choice for a memorable photograph of a very pretty bride.


The Cathedral of Oaxaca and the main zocolo (plaza) of Oaxaca are all decked out with poinsettias (which are native to Mexico) for the Christmas holidays.


There was and is a large indigenous culture that makes it one of the two largest indigenous populated states in Mexico.


 
The Dance of the Plumes (feathers) performed during Easter week is a very traditional indigenous dance and an exhausting workout.


 

A lovely lady from one of the many indigenous groups of Oaxaca wearing a traditional huipil top.


 
A local woman with child selling vegetables on the street of Oaxaca.


Two of the most important archaeological ruins in Mexico,  Monte Albán and Mitla, are located in Oaxaca.


Monte Albán located just outside the city of Oaxaca was named a World Heritage Site in 1987 - truly outstanding.


The ruins of Mitla are a showcase of artistic stone fretwork which is found nowhere else in the ancient Latin world.

The stone carvings at Monte Alban are really stunning.

Oaxaca has a fabulous culinary tradition with some of the most outstanding food in Mexico including moles, tamales, and chocolate.



Traditional foods including handmade tamales with different fillings are sold daily in front of the Benito Juarez Mercado.



Traditional foods are prepared daily to either eat at the mercado (market) or "para llevar" (to go). Decisions are hard to make when there are so many great choices.



Women from the surrounding pueblos bring their produce to the city to sell and to also catch up on the local gossip.

There are fabulous traditional fiestas including Semana Santa (Easter Week celebrations), Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead celebrations), the Radish Fiesta (unique to only Oaxaca City); and the annual Guelaguetza, the traditional folk dance festival which is famous not only in Mexico, but internationally as well.


The Good Friday processions are HUGE in Oaxaca City!



The Good Friday processions are especially dramatic at night with the candles, smoking incense, and mournful sounding drums.



The annual Guelaguetza dance festival is held each summer and visitors come from many, many countries to to enjoy.



Oaxaca is also known for its exuberant Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) festivities each year on November 1st and 2nd. "Altars" are constructed by families in remembrance of dearly departed ones.



The Radish Festival is unique to Oaxaca City and is celebrated on December 23rd each year. The main square is filled with competitors who vie for awards for the most uniquely carved radishes and artistic corn husks.


And if these attributes were not enough, the arts, crafts, and the outstanding textile tradition of Oaxaca are beyond comparison. A visitor cannot be anything but thoroughly enchanted with all that Oaxaca has to offer.


Alebrijes are individually hand carved from local wood and hand painted. These unique creatures are a Oaxacan specialty and are prized by collectors.



A visit to the Rudolfo Morales Gallery can be combined with a visit to the weekly market in Ocotlan. The gallery is one of our favorites.

 Individually carved masks are worn in traditional dances which predate the arrival of the Spanish and are popular with collectors.


Check out the embroidery detail on this huipil, the traditional "blouse" of indigenous Mayan women.



The textiles of Oaxaca are ART to be worn with pride and the motifs vary according to the region of origin.


 In addition to the magic of Oaxaca City, the entire state Oaxaca has something to entice and enchant travelers of all interests. The surrounding pueblos, or small towns, were fascinating to visit during their weekly markets where the locals gather as they have since pre-Colombian times to buy and trade foods of every type of imaginable product. These traditional weekly markets (tianguis) are exciting and colorful beyond words.



The overwhelming selection of produce at one of the weekly markets outside of Oaxaca City is amazing! And enjoying the action of commerce is a real experience!



Looking for the perfect chilies in this massive pile! I think I might also need some garlic from the lady checking me out.



I call this photograph "Lost in the Banana Patch" - can you believe the quantity???

                            AND MY FINAL CLOSING SHOT OF OAXACA! 



I hope this handsome piece of meat isn't on the market at the market! Notice that his keeper has brought some nice greens to keep him busy and out of trouble.

I hope that this small introduction to Oaxaca has planted the seed for a visit. I plan on sharing more of the magical pueblos that surround Oaxaca City including Ocotlan and Zaachila which are two of my favorite pueblos. I will also be posting on the beautiful Pacific Coast beaches of Oaxaca including Puerto Escondido.

I remember many, many years ago hearing that a picture is worth a thousand words. Well, I am a believer so following is a link to my WEB ALBUM which has additional photos for this posting. 

OAXACA WEB ALBUM

Please do not hesitate to contact me with any comments, suggestions, or questions. Until next time, saludos and hope to see you again very soon. Laura


Memories are just a click away!

Sunday, August 10, 2014

MERIDA, YUCATAN: THE WHITE CITY










After spending a few years living in both Central and South America I felt it was time to go “home.” My husband asked, but where is home? It did not take me long to respond that to me home was Mexico. But, of course, Mexico is a very large country and could I be more specific? After giving it some serious consideration we realized that one city that we had never visited was the capital of Yucatan and that city was Merida. So without having any true sense of the place we booked our flight from Argentina and arrived back in Mexico at Cancun. From there it was just an easy four hour bus ride to Merida and we were immediately captivated by this enchanted city.

Before we get started, can you locate the state of Yucatan in Mexico?



Hint: it's on the Gulf of Mexico and it is PURPLE!  

For those who don't have the patience to view my album at the end of this post:



NOW FOR A COUPLE OF OPENING PEEKS:



Merida offers amazing entertainment for all to enjoy!


The traditional music and dances are outstanding and beautiful.



The Cathedral on the plaza of Merida.


Traditional horse-drawn white carriages are called calesas and are used in parades and for rides around town by locals and visitors.


The Easter parade is spectacular and the beautiful local women make it even more so!


Maybe it was “blind” luck, but we succumbed to the charm of this city immediately. To me the magic of Merida was the fact that it was such an interesting blend of indigenous Mayan culture, pre-Colombian Spanish colonial charm, vibrant modern Mexican lifestyle, and the exciting contemporary influences of residents from many different countries and different regions of Mexico. Merida was exciting, happening, and yet very peaceful and traditional. A combination that was truly attractive and unique.



The municipal government of Oaxaca is very active in sponsoring a great variety of cultural and artistic events throughout the year.


Merida's cathedral looms over the zocalo (plaza).


The main plaza with weekend vendors selling local arts and crafts.


One of the municipal buildings on the main plaza in Merida which is a great place to watch the world go by!

 A local couple decide to set up "shop" at our front door - welcome!


Many huge mansions were built in Merida at the turn of the 20th century based on the production and huge sales of hemp rope and twine world wide. It was also known locally as "Green Gold" because of the great wealth it brought to the area.



A colorful "mansion" in the Mejorada neighborhood of Merida has been converted to a commercial space.



Don't you wish you could achieve this colorful "weathered look" intentionally?


A sombrero is muy importante considering the strong sun and the clear blue skies!


The blend of old and new influences is everywhere in Merida. The municipal government of Merida is amazingly pro-active in creating cultural, artistic, and entertainment events to be enjoyed by residents and visitors alike. There is something going on all the time. The only issue is trying to balance all the possibilities on a daily basis! One of the annual highlights in Merida is its spectacular Carnival parade just prior to the beginning of Lent. I will be posting more photographs of this amazing event in the future.



Carnival celebrations in Merida are some of the biggest and best in Mexico!


Carnival in Merida is NOT to be missed!


Some lovely young senoritas at the annual Red Cross Benefit Dance


Merida is located in the middle of the peninsula of Yucatan which makes it also a convenient starting point for visiting many of the surrounding areas and attractions. There is something to entice every category of traveler. Within easy driving distance, or by convenient public transportation, a visitor can enjoy restored ex-haciendas, small traditional pueblos such as Izamal, nature preserves such as the Celestun Flamingo Reserve, the beaches on the Gulf of Mexico, the magnificent archaeological ruins of Chichen Itza, Uxmal, and Tulum, the underground cenotes (water “holes”) such as Cuzama and Chunkanan, and the nearby Spanish colonial city of Valladolid, and more. Whew!



The Mayan tradition and lifestyle still thrives and is the very fiber of Yucatan.


Many Spanish colonial churches are built in and around Merida in Yucatan


The Gulf coast is only 30 minutes from Merida when in need of a salt water fix.


The Celestun Flamingo Reserve on way to Campeche.

The marshes at the flamingo reserve are fun to explore by boat and the cool water is delightful!


It's lunch time for the seagulls on the Gulf of Mexico of Yucatan.



Visiting a restored Hacienda outside of Merida is a fun way see the countryside. It also gives a visitor a glimpse of what life was like at the turn of the twentieth century.

 The quiet countryside outside of Merida is very much like it has been for many, many centuries!

 
A visit to a former hacienda which is just begging to be bought and restored to it's former glory! Anyone need a project? 




An abandoned garden in an abandoned hacienda waiting for someone to rescue and restore it. Maybe a B&B?


And if this is not enough, the Caribbean coast including the ruins at Tulum, the Mayan Riviera, and our favorite beach escape is an easy drive away from Merida. Here are a couple of photographs of what I will be sharing in another posting for this area of Mexico.


 The ruins at Tulum with its stunning white sand beach is an unbeatable combination!



Can you guess where this might be? It's less than five hours from Merida!



Just thinking of all the great things to see and do in the state of Yucatan makes me want to get back on the bus and take off for a return visit and most especially to Merida. In the meantime, I will just have to dream of a return!

I remember many, many years ago hearing that a picture is worth a thousand words. Well, I am a believer so following is a link to my WEB ALBUM which has additional photos for this posting.

LINK TO MERIDA, YUCATAN PHOTO ALBUM

I sincerely look forward to hearing from my visitors. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any comments, suggestions, or questions. Until next time, saludos and gracias, Laura



Memories are just a click away!