ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA: SIMPLY AWESOME!

 CAUTION! SLOW DOWN! ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK!
 YOU ARE ENTERING A SEDUCTIVELY SPECIAL ZONE!

These words of caution may sound extreme, but they are my way of warning you that the Spanish colonial city of Antigua in Guatemala is a seductively special place and should only be visited if you prepare yourself for what I call "AWESOME ANTIGUA."

I was captivated with Antigua from our initial visit. As tourists, my husband and I had visited Antigua with a group of local residents from Puerto Vallarta during Antigua's incredible Semana Santa (Easter Week) celebrations. It was some years later that we remembered its many attractive attributes and we couldn’t resist the allure. It did not take long to pack our bags leaving Mexico behind and move to Antigua for a new living experience.

Part of my fascination and immediate captivation with Antigua was from its appeal on a variety of levels, but especially the following:

* HISTORY BOTH TRAUMATIC AND DRAMATIC

* SPANISH COLONIAL INFLUENCE AND ITS SURVIVING ARCHITECTURE

* PAGEANTRY OF ITS HOLIDAYS INCLUDING SEMANA SANTA AND DIA DE GUADALUPE

All of these attributes excited me with so much to see, do, and learn. I felt as though Antigua was a living museum that I could explore and learn from just by walking out the door and onto its cobble stoned streets. Very simply, Antigua was my kind of place. So let’s visit Antigua!

I BELIEVE A LITTLE HISTORY IS ALWAYS A GOOD THING AND GIVES US AN APPRECIATION OF WHERE WE ARE. SO HERE WE GO.

ANTIGUA GUATEMALA (in Spanish meaning ANCIENT or OLD) was the former capital of Guatemala and is located in the central highlands of Guatemala. It is well-known for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque influenced architecture as well as a number of spectacular ruins of colonial churches. “ANTIGUA” was founded in 1542 by Spanish conquistadors and survivors from nearby Ciudad Vieja (Old City) which had been destroyed by a volcanic mud and debris flow and earthquake.

ANTIGUA GUATEMALA (Now commonly known as Antigua) became the third capital of Spanish Guatemala. During the seventeenth century Antigua flourished as one of the richest capitals of the New World rivaling both Lima and Mexico City. For more than 200 years it served as the seat of the military governor of the Spanish colony of Guatemala, a large region that included almost all of present-day Central America and Chiapas, the southernmost State of Mexico. This stable period allowed the Spanish to build most of the colonial-era buildings, churches and plazas that still stand today in the center of Antigua. By the 18th century its population was approximately 60,000 inhabitants.

Antigua's university was a center of the arts and learning and its churches, convents, monasteries, public buildings, and residences were characterized by massive luxury until a devastating earthquake struck in 1773. Antigua is surrounded by the volcanoes Agua (water), Acatenango, and Fuego (fire) which was continually subject to natural disaster from volcanic eruptions, floods, and earthquakes.

On September 29, 1717 an estimated 7.4 magnitude earthquake hit Antigua, Guatemala and destroyed over 3,000 buildings. In 1773 a series of earthquakes leveled the city and the Spanish captain-general subsequently ordered the removal of the capital to an area supposedly free from earthquakes and thereby founding Nueva Guatemala de la Asuncion (New Guatemala of the Assumption) which is now known as Guatemala City, the current capital of Guatemala.

The badly damaged city of Santiago de los Caballeros, the original Spanish name for Antigua, was ordered abandoned although not everyone left the ruins of the city. The indigenous Maya who stayed renamed the city Antigua Guatemala (Ancient Guatemala). Slowly the inhabitants rebuilt their beloved city. When Guatemala gained its independence from Spain in 1823 Antigua was named the capital of the newly-created Sacatepequez Province within the Federation of Central America.



Eadweard Muybridge's photography of the Ruins of the Church in Antigua, Guatemala dated 1875.

Over many years and many generations, Antigua was slowly rebuilt into the stunning colonial city it is today. Its principal monuments have been preserved largely as ruins and are an excellent example of Spanish colonial architecture. Antigua with its many fine Spanish colonial buildings is also a commercial center for the area and a rich coffee-growing region.

NOW THAT WE HAVE A LITTLE BACKGROUND HISTORY, LET’S EXPLORE ANTIGUA’S COLONIAL BUILDINGS AND PRESERVED RUINS.

Enough of the original Spanish colonial architecture survived the 1773 earthquake to enable Antigua to restore many buildings and churches. Though many of the colonial buildings and monasteries are still in ruins, they have been preserved “AS IS” and can be viewed while walking the streets of Antigua. Such is the value of this historic district that UNESCO designated Antigua a World Heritage site in 1979. All of this definitely qualifies Antigua to be in my “AWESOME” category!

The architectural remains of the churches, buildings, and plazas reflect the history of Antigua with its Spanish influence from the colonial era. A countless number of churches, chapels, convents, monasteries, and estates are available for viewing when visiting Antigua. Living in Antigua allowed me to appreciate its history and culture as reflected by the surviving buildings and monuments. Each day was a new adventure and I loved wandering the streets. Here is a representation of what I would see on my walks. Additional photos are included in my Web Album which you will find at the end of this post.

     AND NOW FOR CELEBRATIONS AND PAGEANTRY!

A large part of my fascination and love of Antigua was it’s incredible public celebrations and pageantry. Most of these events were part of the Catholic tradition of this country. La Antigua is especially famous for its very elaborate religious celebrations during Lent leading up to Holy Week (Semana Santa) and Easter (Pascua). We were fortunate to witness this pageantry on three separate occasions and I would not hesitate to return for a fourth time.

 Antigua embraces thousands of travelers each year wanting to experience this world-famed Catholic celebration commemorating the Passion, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Jesus Christ. The entire city participates in the solemn activities during the week with a joyous celebration on Easter. Spanish missionaries from Seville initiated this religious occasion during colonial times.

On Palm Sunday “andas” or floats with images of the Holy Virgin of Sorrow and Jesus of Nazareth are carried on the shoulders of purple-robed devotees. The floats weigh up to 7,000 pounds with 50-100 curcuruchas (penitents) or carriers bearing the weight. Funeral marching bands follow the floats with sounds of slowly beating drums, clapping cymbals and mournful sounding tubas. Thick incense creates a haunting fog. Crowds are silent as the solemn procession passes by.

Monday through Thursday similar processions parade through the streets in memory of the final days of Jesus. There is standing room only along the streets of Antigua with crowds awaiting each church’s arrival with their float. On Good Friday, the participants dress in black. A float with a sculpture of Jesus carrying the crucifix leads crowds of mourners who pray silently and offer penance.

In the afternoon, preparations are made for a mock trial and sentencing of Jesus Christ. Participants are dressed as Roman soldiers and even Pontius Pilate is represented. Eventually floats covered with statues of the crucified Jesus come to rest at the church late in the night. This is an especially dramatic evening with the main plaza packed with participants and observers.

Holy Saturday’s processions are dedicated to images of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow. Women dress in their finest outfits and often wear high heels. Easter Sunday is a day of rejoicing the resurrection of Christ with fireworks, family meals, and celebrations continuing throughout the day.

One of the most special aspects of Holy Week are the elaborate alfombras (Arabic word for carpet) which adorn the cobbled streets between processions. Families and friends begin preparations weeks and months ahead of the festival to create these beautiful offerings.

Sand is first spread over the cobblestones to level them. Then dyed sawdust in hues of black, red, yellow, purple, blue, and green are pressed through intricately designed cardboard stencils. Flowers, seeds, plants, vegetables, and pine needles add the final touches to these temporary works of art. The designs of the carpets (alfombras) represent biblical symbols, Mayan traditions, and scenes from nature.

During the course of the processions the marchers with their heavy floats trample the once-beautiful alfombras leaving only a flower mess behind. Semana Santa (Saint or Holy week) is a sensory experience that mingles Spanish and Mayan traditions. It is a fantastically moving experience and well worth the trip.

The following old photographs show Semana Santa in Antigua at night time which is certainly an awesome and moving experience:   

    

The third most important celebration after Easter and Christmas in Mexico and in the majority of indigenous Central American countries, including Guatemala, is in honor of the Catholic Virgin Mother Mary and is called DIA DE LA VIRGEN DE GUADALUPE (Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe). She is honored each year on December 12th.

The following excerpt from Wikipedia I think is a good mini-introduction to the Virgin of Guadalupe:

“Our Lady of Guadalupe (Spanish: Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe), also known as the Virgin of Guadalupe (Spanish: Virgen de Guadalupe), is the title given to the Virgin Mary.  Official Catholic accounts state that on the morning of December 9, 1531, Juan Diego saw an apparition of a young girl at the Hill of Tepeyac, near Mexico City. Speaking to him in Nahuatl, the girl asked that a church be built at that site in her honor; from her words, Juan Diego recognized the girl as the Virgin Mary. Diego told his story to the Spanish Archbishop of Mexico City, Fray Juan de Zumarraga, who instructed him to return to Tepeyac Hill, and ask the "lady" for a miraculous sign to prove her identity. The first sign was the Virgin healing Juan's uncle. The Virgin told Juan Diego to gather flowers from the top of Tepeyac Hill. Although December was very late in the growing season for flowers to bloom, Juan Diego found Castilian roses, not native to Mexico, on the normally barren hilltop. The Virgin arranged these in his peasant cloak or tilma.”

FOR COMPLETE TEXT PLEASE GO TO:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Guadalupe

MORE OF THE LEGEND:  "According to legend the Dark Virgin of Guadalupe (aka Coatlaxopeuh and Tonantzin) appeared before the peasant Juan Diego only ten years after the Spanish conquest. The symbolism of the Virgin of Guadalupe can be interpreted from both indigenous and Spanish perspectives.Whether or not the Virgin of Guadalupe actually appeared to the indigenous peasant Juan Diego in 1531 at Tepeyac Hill is a question of faith. What is certain is that the cultural significance of her image for Latinos across the Americas is indelible.

According to anthropologists, the duality of her symbolism spoke to both Spanish and indigenous Nahauatl audiences in the sixteenth century. Her very name, Guadalupe is the Spanish pronunciation of the Nahuatl name Coatlaxopeuh, a Mesoamerican fertility goddess.The well-known image is, according to scholars, full of a number of symbols that strongly relate it with the culture and history of the indigenous people."  

FOR COMPLETE TEXT PLEASE GO TO: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/12/08/the-mestizo-symbolism-beh_n_1138090.html


Irregardless of personal beliefs or persuasions DIA DE LA VIRGEN DE GUADALUPE is one of the most important and celebrated occasions in Latin America and that is certainly true in Antigua. Every 12th of December in Guatemala on the Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe children throughout the country dress up in colorful traditional indigenous costumes and carry an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe in local processions. Usually marimba music (the national instrument of Guatemala) and food stalls offering traditional foods are part of the festivities.

The above photograph is one of my most cherished memories taken during the celebration of the Virgin Mary in Antigua. 

In Antigua the celebrations take place in front of the beautiful baroque church of La Merced. Rustic mini-scenes backed by painted images of the Virgin are set up in front of the church and parents pose their children for photographs. The the boys have mustaches painted on their faces in honor of the peasant Juan Diego who saw the apparition of the Virgin in 1531 and the girls have little baskets tied to their heads and backs representing traditional indigenous custom. It is a very happy celebration with families and children participating. A more solemn celebration is also conducted at mass in the church. Without a doubt Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe is one of my favorite annual festivals in the Latin world.

I hope you have enjoyed your “mini” visit to AWESOME ANTIGUA with me. It has been a pleasure for me to also revisit this wonderful town. I realize there is so much more to share with you from this beautiful and interesting Spanish colonial city. But until then, I leave you with more photographs from the following link:

LINK TO ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA PHOTO ALBUM


Please do not hesitate to contact me with your comments, suggestions, or questions. I may be contacted directly by email or by posting a comment on this blog page. Until next time, saludos and gracias, Laura  

                           Memories are just a click away so keep on clicking!                                 

ARGENTINA: THE SPECTACULAR LAKE DISTRICT

Holiday Greetings from Argentina’s Lake District!

One of the issues most challenging to expats is missing the traditional holidays of their home country.  And for this expat the holiday right up near the top of the list is Thanksgiving Day in the United States.  At this time of the year I have many wonderful memories of where we have spent this uniquely American holiday period.  It makes me think of those places with fondness and often nostalgia.  One of the places most memorable to me during the Thanksgiving Day holiday period is the time we lived in San Martin de los Andes in the Lake District of Argentina.  I hope you can carve out a little time from your holiday plans and join me for this visit to the Lake District!  

Commonly known as the “Lake District” this region of Argentina marks the northernmost point of Patagonia and the landscape is defined by a rich blend of gorgeous forestry, towering mountain ranges, snow-capped peaks and plenty of deep, dazzling lakes. As you explore this area of Argentina you will constantly be amazed at how beautiful a simple landscape can be. This region takes the visitor back to pure basics where nature does her thing and hours can be spent just gazing at beautiful horizons.

      Lovely Lake Lacar and the joy of living in Argentina's Lake District.

The Lake District of Argentina is part of the Nahuel Huapi National Park which was established in 1934 and which is the oldest of the thirty national parks in Argentina.  The park surrounds Nahuel Huapi Lake in the foothills of the Patagonian Andes and is bordered by Chile on its western side. The largest of the national parks in the region it has an area of approximately 2,720 square miles or nearly 2 million acres. Nahuel Huapi National Park is dominated by the high mountain chain of the Andes with many spectacular lakes, rapid rivers, waterfalls, snow covered peaks, glaciers, valleys, and extensive forests. The name comes from the Mapuche language of the indigenous people where nahuel means tigre, or tiger, and huapí means isla, or island.

    The beauty of the Lake District never fails to give pause and appreciation.

Spring has sprung in the spectacular Lake District of Argentina.

Images of the indigenous Mapuche people of the Lake District in Argentina. 

       The indigenous Mapuche people are found in the Andean region of both Argentina and Chile.

Nahuel Huapi National Park is an internationally known year round destination for nature lovers and sports enthusiasts. In spring, melting snow creates waterfalls by the dozen. In winter the mountain snows draw skiers particularly to the slopes of Cerro Catedral. The glacier at Perito Moreno and iceberg-dotted lakes generate sighs of wonder. In summer and fall the lakes and terrain attract boaters, fly fishers, trekkers, rafters, kayakers, equestrians, mountain bikers, climbers, and para gliders.  The Lake District is unparalleled for outdoor activities in Argentina and Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapí is truly one of the jewels of Argentina.

More blooming evidence of Spring as seen in Nahuel Huapi National Park of the Lake District.

As well as enjoying the beautiful natural surroundings in the Lake District region, there are also several towns which are well worth visiting  including San Martin de los Andes, Villa de Angostura, and Bariloche.  We chose the charming town of San Martin de los Andes on Lake Lácar as our home base from which to explore this spectacular area.  So let’s meet and greet San Martin!  

SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES

   View of San Martin de los Andes on Lake Lacar

Following is a brief excerpt from an email we sent to family and friends many years ago when we first arrived in San Martin.  I find it interesting to now read these forgotten, but not lost, emails since joining the world of blogging.  Little did I know that blogging would be created in the not-so-distant future and little did I know what fun it would be t share the many places we had visited, explored, and lived in during our expat “nomadic” life.

  “We are currently in the beautiful Lake District which is south of Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina.  We are living the outdoor life and enjoying the incredible lakes with the Andes in the background.  Our base is San Martin de los Andes which is a lake town of approximately 30,000 inhabitants.  It is one of the top tourist destinations in the country and for a very good reason – its beauty, its casual lifestyle, its outdoor activities, and its friendly population.

San Martin de los Andes was our home base while living and exploring the Lake District.

San Martin de los Andes is located on the northeastern coast of Lácar Lake (Spanish: Lago Lácar) which is a lake of glacial origin in the province of Neuquén, Argentina. It is enclosed in a mountain range of the Andes approximately 2,100 feet above sea level. The area around the lake is mostly uninhabited except for the small city of San Martín de los Andes. The lake has a surface area of approx 22 square miles  and is about 25 miles long. Like many Andean Argentine lakes it drains across Chile and into the Pacific Ocean.

  San Martin de los Andes and its charming Alpine-influenced architecture.

It may be relatively small and compact, but San Martín de los Andes is full of charm and all the amenities needed for both residents and visitors. San Martin offers many wonderful  outdoor activities activities including boating, hiking, fishing, and nearby skiing.  San Martin’s setting could not be more beautiful or scenic with views of the surrounding mountain peaks. We spent the spring and summer months in San Martin which are the fall and winter months in the northern hemisphere.  It was perfect for our outdoor lifestyle and my love of warm weather.

The magic of San Martin de los Andes at night.

 
Now for a little historical background: San Martín de los Andes was founded in 1898 and modeled like a European style alpine village. Following its founding the main economic activities were wood logging and husbandry. A major change in settlement life came about when Lanín National Park was created in 1937. The creation of Lanín National Park meant that wood logging was gradually reduced and numerous small settlements along the lake shore disappeared. New roads were built which effectively connected San Martín with the rest of Argentina. This led to an increased trade that almost ended local husbandry and agriculture. In the 1970s many tourism enterprises were established in San Martín making the town an important tourism center especially during the skiing season.

  The beauty of San Martin de los Andes and its setting never disappoints!

From San Martin de los Andes we could visit the nearby towns and the many recreational areas. It was a perfect base for our needs! When we felt like “hitting the road” we had two options. One option was getting on local bus for the excursion on the Road of the Seven Lakes.  The other option was to get on a long distance bus to cross over the Andes and visit Chile.  I will save those excursions, however, for another posting.

Here is a peek of a glorious Andean peak as seen on our way to visit Chile from the Lake District.  

What a charming country scene in the Lake District of Argentina. 

The Road of the Seven Lakes (Spanish: Camino de los Siete Lagos) is the popular name given to provincial route #234 between San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. It then continues on to the Los Arrayanes National Park, the Nahuel Huapi National Park and Lake, and Bariloche. Much of this scenic 107 kilometer (approximately 67 mile) road was only partially paved when we lived there with the rest being covered in pebbles so consider yourself forewarned for quite a ride!   

There are non-stop spectacular views as seen in the Lake District of Argentina.

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA

On no, another gorgeous lake! This is Lago Nahuel Huapi at Villa la Angostura.

As an introduction to our visit to Villa La Angostura, here is another excerpt from one of my  emails sent to family and friends while living in the Lake District:  

“We have taken the three hour bus trip on this route (one-half of which is on gravel road)  with one gem of a lake after another.  The final lake on this route is named Lago Nahuel Huapi where the small town of Villa La Angostura is located and where we spent Turkey Day.  “Villa” as the locals call it is on the same lake as Bariloche, but there the similarity ends.  It is small, lovely, and quiet.  We spent Turkey Day having a chicken-bird picnic on the beach.  You will see that we made friends with a local doberman who definitely enjoyed the picnic with us and who guarded us while we took our after-feast siesta!”

Villa la Angostura is one of the most picturesque towns in the Lake District and is well suited for relaxation when a visitor is not enjoying the many outdoor activities in the area. The architecture of the town is of Alpine-style wooden motif similar to that of Bariloche's city center. There are lovely shops and restaurants of artisanal products such as chocolate, beer and trout. “Villa” is categorized as a mountain village even though it has approximately 11,000 inhabitants.

Thanksgiving Day in Villa la Angostura where we gave thanks for our good fortune.

Villa La Angostura is considered one of  the main attractions of Argentina's Andean Patagonia region not only because of the wooden town itself, but also because of its beautiful surroundings.  Beaches, forests, mountains, adventure sports and wonderful food are all to be found and enjoyed in “Villa.”  On the west side of Villa is the Nahuel Huapi Lake and to the east the Correntoso Lake.  Both lakes are connected by the Correntoso River which is one of the popular sport fishing destinations around Villa la Angostura.

Scenic cruise boats ply the waters from Villa la Angostura. 

A "local" has decided we offer the best available Thanksgiving meal and we are happy to share!

Just outside Villa la Angostura is Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes which offers several hikes through the unique arrayán forest - arrayáns are evergreens with gnarled brown trunks). Here you can hike mountain trails and enjoy hidden vistas of Lake Nahuel Huapi without the crowds. Afterwards, retire to your lodge, or cabin, or hut, or whatever which is often tucked away in the surrounding forest. Villa a great retreat for a few days of fun and relaxation. Above all, it is a place to enjoy nature and the peaceful life. Now for a total change of pace, let’s visit the bustling city of Bariloche!

 Striking Arrayan trees are native to the Andes and are found in and around Villa de Angostura.

BARILOCHE

       Now this is one attractive bus and it's time to visit Bariloche. 

San Carlos de Bariloche, usually referred to as Bariloche, is a city situated in the foothills of the Andes on the southern shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake. It is located within the Nahuel Huapi National Park and is the largest urban area in Argentina’s Lake District. The city has a permanent population of approximately 110,000 and is the the biggest, most lively, and most tourist oriented city in the Lake District.The name Bariloche comes from the Mapudungun (language of the Mapuche people) word Vuriloche meaning "people from behind the mountain.” The Poya people used the Vuriloche pass to cross the Andes, keeping it secret from the Spanish priests for a long time.

Meet the magnificent poster boy of San Carlos de Bariloche!

After development of extensive public works and Alpine-styled architecture, the city emerged in the 1930s and 1940s as a major tourism center with skiing, trekking, and mountaineering facilities. San Carlos de Bariloche is surrounded by pristine wilderness and is picturesquely located on the edge of the sparkling Nahuel Huapi Lake and offers plenty of adventure sports and skiing opportunities. The town itself is memorable for its alpine village style architecture, buzzing nightlife, and its amazing quantity and variety of chocolate.  

Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate everywhere in Bariloche!

My daughter and I visited Bariloche during Easter week when she was a
foreign exchange student in Argentina. Bariloche was one huge chocolate Easter wonderland with everything imaginable in the form of chocolate. It was a chocolate addicts fantasy come true. In 2012 Bariloche received the Guinness Book of Records certification for the largest chocolate Easter egg in the world! Quite impressive.

Check out Bariloche's 4 ton award winning Easter Egg!

Tourism, both domestic and international, is the main economic activity of Bariloche all year round. While popular among foreigners including Europeans, the city is also very popular among Brazilians.

One of the most popular activities is skiing. The main ski area is at the area of Cerro Catedral. During the summer beautiful beaches such as Playa Bonita and Villa Tacul also welcome sunbathers. Most tourists visit Bariloche in its winter (summer for North Americans and Europeans) for its skiing, but it is definitely a worthwhile destination year round. And the regular flights from Buenos Aires make Bariloche and the Lake District conveniently accessible.

Bariloche is especially beautiful when a visitor is ready for something other than beautiful natural scenery!  

Some visitors may be put off with the tall apartment buildings, nightclubs, and the urban sprawl. If you feel this way, head out to Nahuel Huapi Lake or the surrounding mountains and enjoy their peace and quiet. It is also easy to avoid staying in the city center by finding accommodations on the road leading to Llao Llao outside of Bariloche. There are many options available in and around Bariloche to satisfy every personality and Bariloche is certainly a worthwhile destination while visiting Argentina’s Lake District. 

                                  

 The lovely and very impressive Llao Llao Hotel and Resort near Bariloche.

Countryside beauty and quiet at Llao Llao which is conveniently close to bustling Bariloche.

I sincerely hope you have enjoyed your visit to the spectacular Lake District of Argentine. I know that I have certainly enjoyed revisiting this beautiful area.  Until our next excursion, I wish you happy holiday Thanksgiving Day greetings and l look forward to seeing you again very soon!  Saludos, Laura 

Gobble, gobble holiday greetings from a handsome still-running-wild Mexican Turkey!