Sunday, March 7, 2021

THE MAPUCHE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE OF ARGENTINA AND CHILE




When my husband and I decided to indulge ourselves in a nomadic lifestyle Argentina became our first country to explore. It was large and diverse in its many regions and we loved it. Our base was the incredible capital city of Buenos Aires which seemed like a country in and of itself. Buenos Aires turned out to be our jumping off point for visiting many other parts of Argentina. 


A lovely older Mapuche woman we met during our exploration of the area and their culture.


On one of our first explorations we headed to the Northwest region of Argentina which intrigued me. The Argentine Northwest (Noroeste Argentino) is a geographic and historical region of Argentina composed of the provinces of Catamarca, Jujuy, La Rioja, Salta, Santiago del Estero, and Tucuman. Little did I know how the landscape and culture of this region would capture my fascination.


It was here that I was “introduced” to the indigenous Mapuche people of this stunning area of Argentina. And now many many years later I look forward to sharing the Mapuche culture and people with you as part of my “INDIGENOUS PEOPLES OF LATIN AMERICA” blog series. 



So let’s meet the Mapuche indigenous people of Argentina and Chile. 

  

I love maps and getting a sense of where we are I believe is a good thing.


The Mapuche nation is situated in what is known as the Southern Cone of South America in the area now occupied by the the countries of Argentine and Chile. The Mapuche are a group of indigenous inhabitants of south-central Chile and southwestern Argentina including parts of present-day Patagonia with a population of approximately 800,000. The literal meaning of Mapuche is “people of the earth.” 





A LITTLE MAPUCHE HISTORY





Historically the Araucanian Indians lived in the southern, central, and northern areas of Chile and in present-day Argentina. They were divided into three main groups: the Picunche in the north, the Mapuche in the central area, and the Huilliche in the south. The Araucanians fought Inca invaders from Peru in the fifteenth century and Spanish conquerors in the seventeenth century.






The Mapuche and the Huilliche groups established a reputation as fierce warriors. Both groups bravely defended their lands and their way of life. They continued to resist the Spaniards for hundreds of years. The Mapuche finally lost their independence in the War of 1880–1882. After this defeat they were forced to settle further south on small reservations. 



WHERE THE MAPUCHE LIVE






The main group of Araucanian that still remain in Chile today are the Mapuche numbering some 800,000 people. Initially they lived between the Itata and Toltén rivers. Today many live in the vicinity of towns such as Temuco, Villarica, Pucón, Valdivia, and Osorno as well as in the southern island region of Chiloe. 



Approximately 400,000 Mapuche have had to migrate to the cities and now live the life of poor, urban workers. There are still a few Mapuche reservations in Argentina particularly on the shores of Lake Rucachoroi and Lake Quillen. However, most Mapuche Araucanian today continue to live in Chile.



THE MAPUCHE LANGUAGE






Mapuche from mapu meaning "land" and che meaning "people" which is pronounced as (ma-pu-CHAY with accent on last syllable) or Mapudungun (from mapu meaning "land" and dungun meaning "speak or speech") is an Araucanian language related to Huilliche and is spoken in south central Chile and west central Argentina by the Mapuche people. 


The Mapuche language was formerly known as Araucanian a name given to the Mapuche by the Spaniards when they conquered the Mapuche territory.  Mapuche avoid using the term Araucanian as they consider it offensive because of its Spanish roots. Mapudungun is not an official language of Chile or Argentina and has received virtually no government support throughout its history.


MAPUCHE MYTHOLOGY AND RELIGION





The mythology and religion of the indigenous Mapuche people of south-central Chile and southwestern Argentina is an extensive and ancient belief system. A series of unique legends and myths are common to the various groups that make up the Mapuche people. The Mapuche believe in an ultimate balance between the forces of creation (Ngenechen) and destruction (Wakufu).



Reverence for nature and acknowledgment of the forces of good and evil are also part of their belief system. Traditional prayer meetings called machitunes invoke the help of the gods and goddesses for rain and good crops. Another type of meeting called a malon involves listening to dreams and prophecies. Roman Catholicism which was brought to the “New World” by the Spaniards has co-existed alongside the original religious beliefs of the Araucanian and in some cases the two have merged.



MAJOR MAPUCHE HOLIDAYS






Mapuche who live in cities celebrate the major Chilean national holidays together with the rest of the population including their Independence Day and the "discovery of America" by Columbus on October 12, 1492. 






The Mapuche who live on reservations have maintained some of their traditional celebrations. One of the best-known festivals is the "guillatun" which is an ancient Mapuche religious ceremony. This rite works as a connection with the spiritual world to ask for well-being, to strengthen the union of the community, or to thank for benefits received.



MAPUCHE RITES OF PASSAGE






All major stages in the life cycle such as birth, puberty, marriage, and death are marked by special ceremonies. Important members of the tribe such as lonkos (the chieftains) play special roles. They are accompanied by music and also include elements of the Araucanian' oral tradition such as poetry and legends.


MAPUCHE RELATIONSHIPS







Greetings have well-defined levels of formality and informality. Strangers can only come into a traditional Mapuche environment upon receiving permission. Those who are accompanied by a Mapuche may be welcomed with elaborate feasting and great hospitality. However, those who come alone could just as easily be met with hostility and silence.


MAPUCHE LIVING CONDITIONS







Some Mapuche continue to live in a fairly traditional style, but many have migrated to towns where they share the lot of other poor urban workers living in shanty towns with poor housing and health conditions. In remote country areas traditional thatched roof huts provide shelter.


MAPUCHE FAMILY LIFE






The Mapuche people who still live on reservations have tried to maintain their traditional family structure which includes members of the extended family or a clan-like structure which includes a clan head or chief. Traditionally, each extended family was headed by a lonko, or chief, who had several wives and many children. The sense of family identity extended to grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, and relatives by marriage.



This type of social structure is gradually being undermined by efforts to Christianize the Mapuche and by government attempts to assimilate them into mainstream society.  Because the male family members come into contact with white society through their work it is they who are influenced by mainstream culture. Women often take the most active role in maintaining the group's traditions.




MAPUCHE CLOTHING




Men in towns wear Western-style shirts and trousers. Women are sometimes dressed more traditionally with long skirts and colorful embroidered aprons. They may also wear head scarves which are sometimes decorated with gold or silver coins. Younger Mapuche girls often wear Western-style clothing such as sweaters and skirts and the boys wearing western-style shirts and pants. 







MAPUCHE EDUCATION





The Mapuche who lost their lands and had to emigrate to the towns now try to offer their children opportunities to attend school. On the reservations many still try to educate their children about their traditional way of life.


MAPUCHE EATS







Traditional hunting and fishing as well as crops such as corn and various fruits ensure a varied and traditional diet for the Mapuche. The distinctive curanto oven (also known as a earth oven, ground oven, or cooking pit) can still be found in rural Mapuche communities. The earth oven is a pit in the ground used to trap heat and bake, smoke, or steam food for hours. Traditional feasting on special occasions can last for several days.


THE MAPUCHE FLAG 



In March 1991 the Chilean Mapuche organization Aukiñ Wallmapu Ngulam, also known as Council of All Lands, decided to have a competition to make the flag of the Mapuche nation. About 500 designs were submitted of which one was selected for the Mapuche nation. The flag is called Wenufoye in the Mapudungun language which translates to "The Heaven's Winter's Bark."

The colors and forms of this Mapuche flag represents:

Yellow (chod or choz): renewal, symbol of the sun.

Blue (kallfü): life, order, wealth and the universe. In Mapudungun, is also an adjective that could be translated as "sacred" or "spiritual".

White (lüq): the cleansing, healing and longevity symbol of wisdom and prosperity.

Red (kelü): strength and power, symbol of history.

Green (karü): the earth or nature, wisdom, fertility and healing power, symbol of the machi (Mapuche shaman).

Cultrun (kultrung or kultrug), a "Mapuche drum": This is a percussion instrument for ceremonial and social use. It has a flat surface in which is represented the Earth's surface. There is drawn the circular design of the mapuche cosmovision: the Meli Witran Mapu (the four cardinal points), and also the sun, the moon, and the stars. This is a symbol of the knowledge of the world.

Gemil (ngumin) Stepped cross or star similar to the Chakana or Inca Cross, or rhombus with twisting border which represents the art of handcrafting, science and knowledge, and the symbol of the writing system.

I find flags as interesting as maps and I find this Mapuche flag wonderful. My pledge is to to start paying more attention to flags in future blog postings.


CLOSING VINTAGE PHOTOS OF THE MAPUCHE



















I hope I have done justice to the Mapuche indigenous people of Argentina and Chile in this introductory blog posting. I have enjoyed learning more about the Mapuche in researching their culture and history and would very much like to revisit this interesting and beautiful area again.  Until then, I couldn't resist the following photograph as my closing Mapuche image which I consider simply beautiful.




With my sincere thanks for joining me and until next time, I wish you safe travels and wonderful adventures wherever they may take you. Saludos, Laura
































Saturday, February 6, 2021

SOCIAL DISTANCING IN THE TIME OF CORONA: PUERTO VALLARTA 2020-2021





In public health social distancing, which is also referred to as physical distancing, is a set of non-pharmaceutical interventions or measures intended to prevent the spread of a contagious disease by maintaining a physical distance between people and reducing the number of times people come into close contact with each other.


Today I am sharing a new blog posting which I have entitled "Social Distancing in the Time of Corona: Puerto Vallarta." I know that might sound pretty ominous, but hopefully I have made it something which I hope you will find entertaining, interesting, and informative. So let's meet our local amigos which have not heard of the virus and are happy to share their world with us.  


Saludos and away we go!

MARINE LIFE





A porcupine Puffer fish puffs up with his spines as a defense mechanism which are immediately retracted when he is released. He is part of the extended Pufferfish family, but unique because of this ability. It's definitely a good idea to have a strong pair of dive gloves when attempting this maneuver.


       

An Eagle Ray who I always comment on looks like he is flying with his "wings."
 

A spiny lobster just "hanging out" which we returned to his hidey hole.


GARROBOS





Stumpy is the old man of our Garrobo family and his age has been estimated to be over 25 years. One local theory is that Stumpy received his name because his once beautiful long black tail was somehow "lost" or "cut off" and thus he became a "Stumpy." More research on that theory is definitely needed.



                             

 Stumpy is a vegetarian and has a voracious appetite which I indulge almost on a daily basis. His favorite foods include pineapple, tomatoes, starfruit, and old ripe banana skins. I believe Stumpy now recognizes me on sight since he comes running through the heavy ground coverage when he sees me or maybe his reptilian brain remembers that I bring yummy Garrobo food. 


                        



Recently Stumpy has made friends with a new younger Garrobo who I have named Stella since I believe she is very pretty and consequently she must be a female. Young and "lovely" Stella has a typical long beautiful tail which is indicative of her Garrobo species. I obviously find these "Dinosaurs" fascinating and I hope you find them as attractive as I do.

BIRDS



As I just mentioned Pelicans are my favorite of our local bird species, but they definitely do not qualify in the "social distancing" category. They are a very gregarious bird and hanging out together seems to make them happy, but I love them just the same.


PELICANS are my favorite of the bird species and whether they are brown or white I think they are wonderful. Very few birds attract attention like Pelicans do. Soaring high in the sky in flocks, forming a near perfect “V” or diving abruptly within a school of fish I find Pelicans simply amazing.


Pelicans have the largest gular sac (pouch below their beak and from which the young ones feed). They build their nests in mangroves or in low coastal bushes. In our area they nest in the rocks of Los Arcos which we can see from our home. Females will lay two to three eggs and both parents will participate during incubation and feeding.


                                 
                  Los Arcos National Marine Park in Banderas Bay, Puerto Vallarta 


Pelicans have legs with four webbed toes. Most have a throat patch of bare skin called a gular patch. Pelicans feed mainly on fish, squid, and other marine species in general and they nest in colonies and are monogamous birds.



Here in the Bay of Banderas I doubt you’ll find an area where Pelicans cannot be found. They are just everywhere you look, perched on a fisherman’s boat, a tree, a dock, or just floating in the water.


                         



WHITE HERONS


 


A white heron (garza blanca in Spanish) mother feeding its young as seen in Puerto Vallarta. This photo is definitely one of my favorites. White Herons symbolizes wisdom, faithfulness, vigilance, and also speaks of your sense of independence.

The majestic white heron can often be seen among other water-friendly birds including seagulls and pelicans along the shore. White Herons also signifies determination because there will be plenty of marshes and ponds that a person will encounter in life and which a person will have to wade through. Very philosophical these birds!



CHACHALACAS are loud and raucous and the noisiest of birds, but I find them fascinating to watch as they stroll around our gardens where they seem appreciative of receiving vegetarian leftovers which I bring them. Don't you find their red eyes especially attractive!





As social birds chachalacas often gather in groups of ten to fifty individuals in trees bearing fruit and where they can rest. They often take dust baths which are used primarily for parasite defense, but which can also be part of the courtship ritual.

                        


Chachalacas feed on fruits, insects, and worms. They build nests in trees and lay two to three large white eggs which only the female incubates. The young are a precocial species which means the young are relatively mature and mobile from the moment of birth or hatching.

                           



Chachalacas are born with the instinct to immediately climb and take refuge in their nesting tree and are able to fly within a few days of hatching. I was fortunate enough to "catch" this young Chachalaca exploring his new environment which is a reminder that I should never leave the house without my camera! 


              



THE BLACK CROWNED NIGHT HERON are small birds compared to many of their long limb heron relatives. They’re most active at night or at dusk when you may see their ghostly forms flapping out from daytime roosts to forage. In the light of day adults are striking in gray-and-black plumage with long white head plumes.


These social birds breed in colonies of stick nests usually built over water. They live in fresh, salt, and brackish wetlands and are the most widespread heron in the world. Certainly a very adaptable bird, the black-crowned night heron!

 
BROWN PELICANS

 
A Brown Pelican taking a little time out for grooming which is no easy thing and I think he is especially handsome.


As I mentioned in the beginning of the posting I simply adore pelicans and consequently here is more of this bird species which I just had to share. The Brown Pelican is a very gregarious bird and lives in flocks of both sexes throughout the year. The brown pelican is a monogamous breeder within a breeding season, but does not pair for life. 




Nesting season peaks for the Brown Pelican during March and April. The male chooses a nesting site and performs a display of head movements to attract a female. At the nest site major courtship displays such as head swaying, bowing, turning, and standing on its legs without any support are performed by both the sexes.




Once a pair forms a bond overt communication between them is minimal. It is a colonial species with some colonies maintained for many years. The brown pelican flies at a maximum height of 60 to 70 feet above the ocean and can spot schools of fish while flying. The Brown Pelican is a piscivore (a great new word for me) which means he feeds primarily on fish. Well, enough already with the Pelicans!

The following link will take you to my blog posting on the marine turtles which I also find fascinating and which I believe  belong in the category of "Social Distancing" 

THE SEA TURTLES OF PUERTO VALLARTA AND MEXICO





I hope you enjoyed this "Social Distancing" album with images of some of our favorite local amigos. It certainly has made me realize how very fortunate we are to live in this wonderful environment. Until next time, wishing you safe travels and grand adventures wherever the road should take you, Laura
































Friday, January 1, 2021

AN INTRODUCTION TO OUR GARROBO AMIGOS

                                


I admit to having more than a small fascination with our local garrobos. I find them immensely fascinating and I look forward to introducing you to this interesting species. So if you are ready, here we go.

I visit them each afternoon while taking a "reading for pleasure break" at what we call the grotto.  The local garrobos come to visit expecting some vegetarian leftovers which I bring them as treats. 


We have three garrobos which is I assume are related.  The old man I have named Stumpy, the younger male I have named Stanley, and the female I have named Stella.  Our garrobos seem to recognize me by sight or maybe it's by smell. 

                             
We have nicknamed Stumpy our oldest Garrobo "the Dinosaur" because he looks like he comes from prehistoric times. 

Spiny-tailed iguanas (Ctenosaura) commonly known as the black spiny-tailed iguana, black iguana, black ctenosaur, and garrobo is a lizard native to Mexico. This genus is part of the large lizard family native to both Mexico and Central America.

Locals often point to this reptile as an"iguana" and another as a "garrobo" with complete assurance although the untrained eye might see no obvious difference. In fact they are distinct species although both are called iguana in English and both belong to the Iguanidae (Iguana) family. 

Garrobos, also named Spiny Iguana or Black Iguana, have several lines of spines on their tail while Iguanas do not. Male Iguanas turn red-orange color when they are going to mate and Garrobos become light turquoise. Garrobos are more common probably because they are omnivores which is defined as an animal who has the ability to eat and survive on both plant and animal matter.


                
 
Every time I look at this old photo I feel as though our old "Garrobo Stumpy" is laughing at me! Our guess is that Stumpy is between 20 and 25 years of age and he still has a sense of humor.  
                            
And last, but not least in my humble opinion, garrobos also qualify as the "FASTEST LIZARD ON EARTH." According to the Guinness Book of World Records Garrobos are the world's fastest lizard with a maximal sprint speed of 34.6 km/hour or 21.49 miles/hour. That rates a big wow in my book.  


And Stumpy our "dinosaur" simply loves star fruits, but he is definitely not the neatest of eaters. 

Male garrobos are capable of growing up to 4 feet 3 inches in length and the females are slightly shorter at 3 feet 3 inches in length.  The males have a crest of long spines which extends down the center of the back. 

             
Stumpy is a voracious vegetarian and I feel guilty if I don't bring him a daily treat. 

Although coloration varies among individuals of the same species adults usually have a whitish, gray, or tan ground color with a series of 4 to 12 well-defined dark dorsal bands that extend nearly to the ventral scales. Males also develop an orange color around the head and throat during breeding season with highlights of blue and peach on their jowls.


 The above image is of our female Garrobo with her magnificent tail and I have named her Stella. I sense that Stella knows she is beautiful and not afraid to strut her stuff.
                              
Black spiny-tailed iguanas are excellent climbers and prefer a rocky habitat with plenty of crevices to hide in, rocks to bask on, and nearby trees to climb. They are diurnal and fast moving employing their speed to escape predators, but will lash with their tails and bite if cornered.  

                 
A photo of Stumpy and Stanley basking in the sun and soaking up the warmth of the rocks.  

Garrobos are primarily herbivorous eating flowers, leaves, stems, and fruit, but they will opportunistically eat smaller animals, eggs and arthropods. Juveniles tend to be insectivores becoming more herbivorous as they get older. 


                          
Stumpy is attracted to a vegetarian diet and literally comes running when I take down his afternoon treat.
                                                            
I have found our garrobos are especially fond of starfruit (aka carambola) which they coming running for when they are in season here.  They also like my other offerings including red tomatoes, cucumbers, purple grapes, and any other leftover produce I might have in the refrigerator. 


Stella soaking up some afternoon rays and which she particular likes. 


Mating generally occurs in the spring. Males show dominance and interest by head bobbing and eventually the male will chase the female until he can catch her and subdue her. Within eight to ten weeks the female dig a nest and lay clutches of up to 30 eggs. 


This photo of Stella our female garrobo just confirms how much they love our leftover fruits and veggies. Isn't Stella's tail simply awesome! 
                                       
The Mexican Spiny-tailed iguana or Garrobo is a social lizard which has adapted to living in groups as opposed to other species of Ctenosaura which tend to be solitary animals. 

Garrobos are excellent climbers and prefer a rocky habitat with plenty of crevices to hide in, rocks to bask on, and nearby trees to climb. They are diurnal and fast moving employing their speed to escape predators but will lash with their tails and bite if cornered.  

                                   
Stanley soaking up the afternoon rays in Puerto Vallarta and life is good especially on a warm sunny day.

Mating occurs in the spring. Males show dominance and interest by head bobbing eventually chasing the female until he can catch her and subdue her. Within eight to ten weeks, the female will dig a nest and lay clutches of up to 50 eggs in a burrow of loose soil. These eggs hatch in 90 days with the bright green babies digging their way out of the sand.


                   
Stumpy and Stanley having some fun and by Stumpy's expression he is really enjoying whatever they are up to.   

When born they are bright green and only change color to the adult gray after about a year. Youngsters eat meat, but when they reach adulthood feed mainly on leaves, fruits, and flowers although adults have been known to enjoy crabs, birds, small mammals and eggs, should the opportunity arise.




I sincerely hope you have enjoyed my introduction to our local garrobo amigos. I know I have enjoyed sharing them with you and in the process learning more about this fascinating species.  Until next time, thank you for joining me and wishing you well and safe travels.   Saludos,  Laura and "El Gordo" Stumpy

The following link will take you to my album for this posting.  I hope you enjoy.



A recent photo me an my old "Dinosaur" Stumpy for his afternoon treat.  


PS I couldn't resist some recent photos of another reptile species which I recently had the opportunity of catching on film.  My husband tells me I missed my calling of being a herpetologist.  I responded that I think I will stick with birds!  


                    

This lizard doesn't walk on water, it runs. Thanks to special fringes on its toes a  Brown Basilisk lizard can escape a predator by running on the water's surface earning it the nickname "Jesus Christ lizard."


                   

This is a photograph of a juvenile Brown Basilisk before he has turned a darker color like the above photograph illustrates. 

For those who might have missed my blog posting on the birds of Mexico here is the link and thank you for joining me.  Laura la Loca 

                      OUR PACIFIC COAST BIRD AMIGOS IN MEXICO