FIESTAS IN OAXACA AND MERIDA, MEXICO

The NOBEL PRIZE winning Mexican writer Octavio Paz said, "The art of the fiesta has been debased almost everywhere else, but not in Mexico." And the following popular Mexican expression "Hay mas tiempo que vida" translates to “Life is short, seize the moment."  I believe the majority of the people of Mexico embrace this feeling and I certainly agree. And what better way to do that than participate in the many wonderful fiestas and celebrations that occur on a regular basis.

After I had published my two postings entitled  

MEXICO: ITS FIESTAS,CELEBRATIONS AND PARADES and

MEXICO: CULTURES, TRADITIONS & CELEBRATIONS PART 2

I realized that there was so much more to share. Consequently this posting includes more of the special fiestas and celebrations which were not included in my first two blog postings and which are dear to all of us who make Mexico our home. I have chosen four very unique fiestas which are found in Oaxaca and Merida.  So if you are rested and ready we have much more fiesta fun ahead.


THE GUELAGUETZA FESTIVAL IN OAXACA

A Zapotec word meaning offering, the Guelaguetza Festival in Oaxaca City showcases regional folkloric dance and music keeping alive a tradition that has been handed down for centuries. La Guelaguetza originated from the Mexica-Aztec conquest of Oaxaca where the native Oaxacan worshiped the goddess of corn called Xilonen. Today La Guelaguetza is a holiday that revolves around dance and brings together the eight regions of Oaxaca.

Held in July the Guelaguetza and most of the related events take place at a large amphitheater above the city although many also take place in nearby villages. Each year the Guelaguetza is celebrated on the two Mondays following July 16. The word Guelaguetza translates to Los Lunes del Corro in Spanish (Mondays on the Hill). The celebration centers around traditional costumed dancing in gender separated groups and it also includes parades complete with indigenous bands, native food, and statewide artisan crafts such as Pre-Hispanic style textiles.

The eight regions of Oaxaca that gather to celebrate La Guelaguetza are Costa, Canada, Mixteca, Isthmus, Papaloapan Basin, the Central Valley, Sierra Norte, and Sierra Sur. Through their music, songs, dances, and traditional attire each region presents a fabulous testimony of their rich traditions and cultural heritage. Although the Guelaguetza celebration has become a large tourist attraction it still retains deep cultural importance for the peoples of the state of Oaxaca which is important for the survival of these cultures.

DANCE OF THE FEATHERS IN OAXACA

Danza de la Plumas (Dance of the Feathers) commemorates the conquest battles between the Spaniards and the Aztecs and is performed as a series of dances in the Zapotec communities of Teotitlan del Valle, Cuilapan de Guerrero, and Zaachila in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. The dance is performed by dancers wearing elaborate headdresses fashioned from painted feathers which gives the event its name.

It is believed that originally the Dance of the Feathers was an Aztec ritual to communicate with their gods for rain, sun, and corn. It later became an annual ritual of remembrance of the physical conquest of Mexico by the Spanish who conquered the Zapotec of the central valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico almost 500 years ago. Such change and catastrophe, however, resulted in one of the world’s most beautiful and unique dances: the Dance of the Feathers.

It is believed that the current dance originated in the town of Cuilpan de Guerrero where Martin Cortes (son of the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes) celebrated the baptism of his child. Martin played the role of his father and the locals played the roles of the conquered indigenous peoples.

At least 10 villages in the Oaxaca Valley have their own version of the Danza de la Plumas which is held during the week honoring the particular village’s patron saint. Each village uses similar dance patterns with the  costumes of Teotitlan del Valle being the most elaborate.


NIGHT OF THE RADISHES FESTIVAL IN OAXACA

Native to China radishes were introduced to Mexico by the Spanish. The legend as to how the Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes) festival began states that one year in the mid 18th century the radish crop was so abundant in and around Oaxaca City that a section lay unharvested for months. In December two local Spanish friars pulled up some of these forgotten radishes. The size and shapes were amusing and the friars took them as curiosities to the market.

In the colonial period the radishes began to be carved with religious themes in conjunction with the annual Christmas market held in the city of Oaxaca on December 23. The carvings were a marketing gimmick with farmers using them to attract the attention of shoppers in the market. Eventually people began buying the radishes not only to eat, but to create centerpieces for Christmas dinners.

The Radish Festival has become a very popular annual event in Oaxaca City attracting over 100 contestants and thousands of visitors. Most entries are scenes that use multiple radishes with the most traditional being nativity scenes.  However, over the years there has been a significant diversification in the entries and not all of them relate to a Christmas theme.

Eventually corn husks and dried flowers were added to the carved radishes to give the festival even more diversity and amusement. In December of 1897 the city of Oaxaca created the formal competition and as the saying goes, the rest is history! I personally like the corn husk creations, not that the carved radishes aren't special.

FESTIVAL OF THE VIRGIN OF SOLITUDE IN OAXACA

Our Lady of Solitude is the patroness of Oaxaca City and she is celebrated and honored every December 18th by the residents of the city. In its origins the cult of the Virgin de la Soledad (Virgin of Solitude) was modest, but little by little it reached the hearts of Oaxacans to such a degree that in all of the towns of the state of Oaxaca there is a replica her image. The Virgin of Solitude wears a purple velvet cape and her vestments are encrusted with pearls, 600 diamonds, and topped by a four-pound gold crown.

There are several minor variations to her story, but there is no doubt that in the State of Oaxaca the Virgin of Solitude is adored and worshiped in a manner similar to the Virgin of Guadalupe in Mexico.  She became the patron of not only the city of Oaxaca, but the entire state as well as of the mariners who sailed to and from her ports.

Viewing the dancing and celebration in memory and in honor of the Virgen of Soledad was cirtainly a unique and memorable experience while living in Oaxaca City.

The Virgin's "home" is the stunning Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude (Basilica de la Virgin de la Soledad) which is a large 17th century church in the center of Oaxaca and only six blocks from the zocalo (main square).

The The Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude which is more commonly referred to as "La Soledad" is the home to a statue of the "Virgin of Solitude." The construction of "La Soledad" started in 1682 and was completed in 1689 and officially consecrated in 1697. The Basilica de la Soledad is part of the Historic Center of Oaxaca City and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987. I think the Virgin would be very pleased with her eternal home and resting place.


CARNIVAL IN MERIDA, MEXICO

Carnival is an official Mexican holiday and festival that was brought to Mexico by the conquistadors from Spain in the sixteenth century. Carnival was originally a food festival because it was the last time to eat abundantly before the 40 days of Lent a period of frugality starting on Ash Wednesday.

Carnival is a significant event in about 225 communities in Mexico many of which, especially in the smaller communities, maintain elements from Mexico’s religious and indigenous heritage. These celebrations vary widely often with traditional dance, regional music, and ceremonies of both pagan and Christian origins. They may also contain modern elements such as floats as well as local sports and cultural events including bullfighting, fishing tournaments, and rodeos.

Since the 20th century the Carnival of Merida in the state of Yucatan, Mexico has been celebrated annually according to the lunar calendar (from the end of January to the beginning of March, depending on the year). Celebrations are happy and colorful parades on the streets of Merida where you can listen to and dance to musical genres including mamba, cha-cha-cha, cumbia, and salsa. There are also representations of the Yucatan and Mayan cultures such as the traditional Battles of Flowers and the typical regional dance.

While doing research for this posting I found the following on the Internet which I loosely translates as follows: "In Merida, Carnival has moved for the most part out of town. Previously it was celebrated in its entirety downtown, but local businesses and residents got annoyed with the noise and overcrowding and consequently the city government decided to move it just outside of town to its own location in Plaza Carnival in Xmatkuil."

Which makes me sad, but at least I still have my photographs to keep my fond and happy memories alive and which I can now share. As we say in Mexico "asi es la vida," which translates to "such is life."

Thank you for joining Mexico and Beyond: Laura's Photo Journey. I hope you have enjoyed this posting and I look forward to seeing you again in the near future. Until then, I wish you well with wonderful adventures wherever your travels take you. Saludos, Laura

And a final farewell from Oaxaca!